A book of the west. Volume 1, Devon : $b being an introduction to Devon and CornwallBaring-Gould, S. (Sabine)
History
A book of the west. Volume 1, Devon : $b being an introduction to Devon and Cornwall
Baring-Gould, S. (Sabine)
Devon (England)
A stone was marked with his blood where he was killed. He got up
and carried his head to where now stands the church. But "they all
did it." These Celtic saints had a remarkable faculty for not only
losing their heads, but finding them again.
There is a grand screen painted and gilt in the church.
At Hartland Point, the promontory of Hercules of the ancients, is
a lighthouse. When the wind is from the west the Atlantic thunders
and foams on one side of the headland, whilst on the other in the
bay the sea lies glassy, and reflects the purple-red slaty cliffs.
The point rises 300 feet out of the sea, and was probably at one
time occupied by a cliff-castle. A visit to Hartland Quay reveals
the most extraordinary contortions in the slate rock. The cliffs are
sombre, the strata thrust up at right angles to the sea, and over
them foam streamlets that discharge themselves into the ocean.
Hartland Abbey was founded by Gytha, the wife of Earl Godwin, and
mother of Harold, in honour of S. Nectan, who, she believed, had
come to the assistance of her husband in a storm and saved him from
shipwreck--as if a true Celtic saint would put out his little finger
to help a Saxon! But there was unquestionably a monastery here long
before--from the sixth century, when S. Nectan settled on this wild
headland.
The large parish was at one time studded with chapels, but these
have all disappeared, or been converted into barns. The church is
two miles from the village of Hartland.
A walk along the cliffs may be carried to Wellcombe, another
foundation of S. Nectan, where is his holy well, recently repaired.
The church contains a screen earlier in character than is usually
found. There were interesting bench-ends with very curious heads.
At the "restoration" a few of the ends were plastered against the
screen, and their unique heads sawn away so as to make them fit the
place into which they were thrust, but never designed to occupy.
Their places were taken by mean deal benches. I suppose as the
patron, S. Nectan, lost his head, these chief ornaments of the
church were doomed to the same fate.
Wellcombe Mouth is worth a visit; a narrow glen descending to the
sea, which here rages against precipitous cliffs.
Another excursion from Bideford should be made to Wear Gifford,
where is one of the finest oak-roofed halls in England.
The mansion stands on a slope, rising gently from the meadows near
the Torridge, yet rears itself into the semblance of a stronghold by
a scarped terrace, which extends along the south front.
Half concealed in luxuriant vegetation, on the right is the
embattled gateway tower, still one of the entrances. In approaching
the house we see two projecting gables, and between them is the
entrance and the hall, the latter with its massive chimney.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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