A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
History
A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898
Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
Railroad travel -- United States; United States -- Description and travel
As we turned our backs on San Jose, we began to feel that we were
heading for home, and were descending from romance and flowers, to the
more commonplace conditions of existence. I question if it would be
good for us to lead too long, the ideal and refined Bohemian life, such
as a well-appointed car, and no care, affords.
It was with a sort of shock, that, after hours of travel, through
smiling plain and upland, we found ourselves in the prosaic environment
of Oakland.
Our car was run out to the end of a pier, which stretched for miles, it
seemed, into the bay. The vast expanse of water about us, the great
city away off across the bay, and the frail-looking, but yet perfectly
safe, piling on which our car had place, gave a tone of empty
loneliness to everything, and we could not but feel gloomy.
We were becoming fastidious. We wanted "roses, roses all the way," and
absolutely were oblivious to the energy which had created this huge
pier, crowned with the really splendid ferry-house, and a ferry-house
is no uninteresting thing. How little do we think that the whole ferry
business in the United States, especially in great centres such as New
York, presents the most distinctively American thing we have; the very
triumph of common sense and directness of means to the proposed end.
We availed ourselves of the splendid ferry here at Oakland, for a
little run once more in San Francisco. My errand was to try and hunt up
the Russo-Greek church, and see something of it. I got to the place,
and saw the exterior of what was once a magnificent residence, but now
a decayed mansion in an unfashionable part of the city. It was given an
ecclesiastical effect by being topped with several melon-shaped domes
of zinc, brightly painted; these, and the pale blue on walls and doors
and windows, gave quite the effect of Russia. My visit, however, was
fruitless. The fathers were all out, and a servitor in attendance
opened the door, only a few inches, for a cautious parley. That glimpse
showed me some rather rich paintings in the interior of the dwelling,
but I had to rush back to our car without waiting for the return of the
fathers, or the view of the church, which, I am sure, they would be
glad to show me.
Once off from Oakland, we were indeed on the home-stretch, but we had
the mountains to climb, and much more to see.
We passed through Sacramento, the capital of the State, merely giving
it a glance, as we journeyed on into the glory of the mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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