Some of our party followed us at a little distance to gather up the remarks. "Here comes Brigham Young, I guess," was one of them; another was, "That's Pope Leo, ain't it?" and yet another was, "No, it's Bishop Sommers." But in the midst of the fun, of which of course I seemed to be oblivious, my eye caught the grave face of a simon-pure Jap, in American dress, standing by, with eyes, as wide open as he could get them, evidently mystified at my appearance. He could vouch certainly for the genuineness of the kimino, but the _tout ensemble_ was too much for him. I felt really sorry for the poor little Japanese, he looked so lonesome, all alone in the crowd. Possibly he might have felt badly that his possible brother countryman did not stop and speak with him! After leaving Reno, our way took us through Nevada, which we passed in the night. When day dawned upon us we found ourselves in desolate places, more lonely desert than anything we had yet seen. The following poem by Charlotte Perkins Stetson most vividly describes the death-like aspect of the place. It is called-- A NEVADA DESERT "An aching, blinding, barren, endless plain; Corpse-colored with white mould of alkali, Hairy with sage-brush, shiny after rain, Burnt with the sky's hot scorn, and still again Sullenly burning back against the sky. "Dull green, dull brown, dull purple, and dull gray, The hard earth white with ages of despair, Slow-crawling, turbid streams where dead reeds sway, Low wall of sombre mountains far away, And sickly steam of geysers on the air." In due time we reached Ogden, a busy-looking place. We did not leave our car, however, for any inspection, waiting for the short run to Salt Lake City, where we were to spend the night and the next day. In the midst of all the car-tracks, and the many signs of commercial activity, a capering Indian, with a blanket flung round his shoulders, amused us by his childish glee and activity. He was in the exuberance of his wild freedom, among all the business and anxieties which civilization brings. What did he care for it all! He was having a good run, and, for the fun of it, was racing with a young fellow on horseback, and was making rather good time, too. I was interested in this child of the past, this offspring of wild life, as without thought or heed for anything but the present moment, he lived out his day. In a short time we were at the city of the Mormons, seeing in the distance, as we approached it, the spectral waters of the Great Salt Lake. XVIII Salt Lake City.--The Governor of Utah.--The Zion Cooperative Store. --Thoughts on Mormonism.--The Semi-annual Conference.--The Eisteddfod. --The Mormon Temple.--Organ Music.--Panoramic View of Valley.--Statue of Brigham Young.--Excursion to Saltair.--Departure from Salt Lake City. We had a full day in Salt Lake City, altogether too short a time for that interesting place, but we made the most of it and saw much.