A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
History
A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898
Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
Railroad travel -- United States; United States -- Description and travel
"We then were driven past the different residences of Brigham Young:
the Lion House, where three of his widows still reside; the Bee Hive,
and the house where his favorite wife, Amelia Folsom, a cousin of
ex-President Cleveland's wife, resided. Brigham Young had seventeen
wives, and fifty-seven children. We passed through the Eagle Gate,
erected by Brigham Young, seeing also a fine site where he intended to
build a college or seat of learning. We then went to a point where we
had a beautiful view of the valley in which the city of Salt Lake lies,
and a most remarkable and exquisite view it was. All around were the
grand, snow-capped mountains, guarding and holding, as it were, in the
hollow of their hands, the city, with its wide streets, and lines of
straight, tall Lombardy poplars, and its thousands of little homes,
small and cosy, usually not more than one story in height. Of course
there were mansions and houses of more pretentious aspect, but it
seemed to me essentially the workingmen's home.
"The statue of Brigham Young adorns the centre of the town, and while
one cannot but abhor certain of his religious views, one cannot but
acknowledge that he was a far-seeing man of great ability.
"It is stated that, great as has been the growth of the city, it has
not reached the limit laid out for it by Brigham Young, when he and his
handful of followers first settled in the then arid and desolate plain,
with its brooding circle of white-tipped hills.
"We returned to our car for dinner, and afterwards the governor
arrived, bringing with him Colonel and Mrs. Clayton. Our car, at the
governor's request, was attached to the regular passenger train to
Saltair, a point some five miles distant, on Great Salt Lake. We found
there a vast pavilion and bathing establishment, capable of
accommodating thousands. The water of the lake is so strongly
impregnated with salt, that nothing except a sort of minute shrimp
lives in it. It was too early in the season for us to take a dip. We
were assured that it was impossible to sink in the water.
"On our way back we passed Colonel Clayton's salt beds, into which the
water is pumped and left to evaporate. The salt which remains is piled
into great heaps. Some of it, in its crude state, is shipped to the
silver mines, where it is used in the reducing of silver from the ore.
Some of the salt is taken to the refining houses, to be manufactured
into the article of domestic use. We spent a pleasant hour in the great
pavilion at Saltair, and then returned in the car to the city, where
our kind friends took leave of us, Mrs. Clayton telling me, before
going, that I greatly resembled a daughter of Brigham Young's by his
first wife! As Mrs. Clayton herself was of the Mormon faith, as was
also Governor Wells, I took it, as it was intended to be, as a
compliment."
Night was settling down upon us as we turned eastward from Salt Lake
City, with faces homeward bound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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