A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
History
A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898
Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
Railroad travel -- United States; United States -- Description and travel
As I have said, our party decided to press on from Glenwood. Hours were
precious on the homeward run, and to have a whole day for the wonders
of the Colorado mountains was something.
We first passed through the canyon of the Grand River, a fitting prelude
to all that was to come. Then we travelled along the Eagle River Canon,
and, last of all, experienced the wild wonders of the Royal Gorge. It
was a day of continued excitement and exalted pleasure. It is hard to
put in words the impressions of these immense rocky passes.
One may think of the giant forces which cleft asunder their rugged
sides in times so far removed as to be scarcely conceivable.
Then, as one sees the detached rocks, and the great moraines at the
mountain bases, and notes the clinging trees, and wild shrubs, and many
flowers, one must think of the rolling seasons, the heat, the frost,
the forces of the wind, and the storm, and the constant changes which
come with rain and sunshine, with growth, and with decay.
And then, wherever one looks, there, at right hand, or at left of the
railway track, is the rushing river, roaring on without stop or
stay--day and night--forever. It was these streams which gave a hint of
the pathway; first, to the red man, and then to the frontier trapper,
and gold-hunter, and last of all, to the engineers who built the iron
track over which we were speeding, swiftly, and in peace.
The picturesque effect of all is as varied as the thoughts which must
come in such a place. The rapid motion of the train, the ever-changing
point of view, as the track winds its sinuous way by the tortuous
river-bed--all gives a sort of motion to the vast, overhanging cliffs,
which seem to dance past one, like giants on a frolic.
I remember once making the journey through these passes, going west
from Denver. The view from the car windows was not enough for me. I
planted myself on one of the car platforms, linked my arm round the
railing, and with my feet on the steps, sat on the floor, swinging out,
as far as I safely could, to take it all in. Thus, oblivious of the
dust, I sat for an hour, and at last, satiated by the views on views,
returned contented to my seat. Just then a brakeman said to me, "We are
now entering the Royal Gorge." I had almost surfeited myself with the
mere prelude to the repast. The best was brought on, when my appetite
was, so to speak, appeased. But, what did appear, was too good to
neglect, so I was soon at it again as before, and did not leave my
perch until we had passed through all the glories which the Royal Gorge
contained.
The climax was reached in a spot too narrow for a track by the side of
the raging torrent. Our railroad was suspended from the sides of the
towering mountains by a huge iron construction, over which we passed,
until wider space beyond, gave us again a hold on _terra firma_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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