A Footnote to History: Eight Years of Trouble in SamoaStevenson, Robert Louis
History
A Footnote to History: Eight Years of Trouble in Samoa
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Samoan Islands -- History
The majesty of buried Samoa was henceforth only to be viewed (like a
private collection) under special permit; and was thus at once cut off
from the company and opinions of the self respecting. To retain any
dignity in such an abject state would require a man of very different
virtues from those claimed by the not unvirtuous Laupepa. He is not
designed to ride the whirlwind or direct the storm, rather to be the
ornament of private life. He is kind, gentle, patient as Job,
conspicuously well-intentioned, of charming manners; and when he pleases,
he has one accomplishment in which he now begins to be alone--I mean that
he can pronounce correctly his own beautiful language.
The government of Brandeis accomplished a good deal and was continually
and heroically attempting more. The government of our two whites has
confined itself almost wholly to paying and receiving salaries. They
have built, indeed, a house for the president; they are believed (if that
be a merit) to have bought the local newspaper with government funds; and
their rule has been enlivened by a number of scandals, into which I feel
with relief that it is unnecessary I should enter. Even if the three
Powers do not remove these gentlemen, their absurd and disastrous
government must perish by itself of inanition. Native taxes (except
perhaps from Mataafa, true to his own private policy) have long been
beyond hope. And only the other day (May 6th, 1892), on the expressed
ground that there was no guarantee as to how the funds would be expended,
and that the president consistently refused to allow the verification of
his cash balances, the municipal council has negatived the proposal to
call up further taxes from the whites. All is well that ends even ill,
so that it end; and we believe that with the last dollar we shall see the
last of the last functionary. Now when it is so nearly over, we can
afford to smile at this extraordinary passage, though we must still sigh
over the occasion lost.
* * * * *
_Malie_. The way to Malie lies round the shores of Faleula bay and
through a succession of pleasant groves and villages. The road, one of
the works of Brandeis, is now cut up by pig fences. Eight times you must
leap a barrier of cocoa posts; the take-off and the landing both in a
patch of mire planted with big stones, and the stones sometimes reddened
with the blood of horses that have gone before. To make these obstacles
more annoying, you have sometimes to wait while a black boar clambers
sedately over the so-called pig fence. Nothing can more thoroughly
depict the worst side of the Samoan character than these useless barriers
which deface their only road. It was one of the first orders issued by
the government of Mulinuu after the coming of the chief justice, to have
the passage cleared. It is the disgrace of Mataafa that the thing is not
yet done.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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