A Gallant of Lorraine; vol. 1 of 2: François, Seigneur de Bassompierre, Marquis d'Haronel, Maréchal de France, 1579-1646Williams, H. Noel (Hugh Noel)
History
A Gallant of Lorraine; vol. 1 of 2: François, Seigneur de Bassompierre, Marquis d'Haronel, Maréchal de France, 1579-1646
Williams, H. Noel (Hugh Noel)
Bassompierre, François de, 1579-1646; France -- Court and courtiers; France -- History -- Bourbons, 1589-1789
Bassompierre, however, had no desire to kick his heels about dirty
Spanish inns until Du Fargis could persuade Philip III to set his people
at liberty; besides which he knew that the affair of the Valtellina was
a pressing one and that he had already wasted a good deal of time. He
therefore decided to continue his journey, but wrote to the Duke of
Monteleone and Don Fernando Giron, two grandees of his acquaintance,
begging them to endeavour to accommodate the affair. These noblemen
spoke to the King and informed Bassompierre that his Majesty desired to
see him as soon as possible, and had promised that, on his arrival, he
would find everything settled to his satisfaction.
On February 21 Bassompierre reached Bayonne, where he remained for four
days as the guest of the Comte de Gramont, who was governor and
hereditary mayor of the town, and then set out for Saint-Jean-de-Luz,
accompanied by the count. On the way he had the unusual experience for a
landsman of witnessing a whale-hunt:--
“As we were coming from Bayonne to Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we saw out at
sea more than fifty little sailing-boats giving chase to a whale,
which had been sighted going along the coast, accompanied by a
little whale. And at eleven o’clock that evening we had news that
the little whale had been captured, which we saw the next morning
lying on the beach, where it had been stranded during the high
tide.”
While at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, some of the inhabitants danced a ballet for
the diversion of their distinguished guests, “which,” says Bassompierre,
“was, for the Basques, as fine as could be expected.” Before leaving the
town they learned of the death of Pope Paul V, which had occurred on
January 28, and of the election of his successor, Alessandro Ludovisio,
Cardinal Archbishop of Bologna, who took the name of Gregory XV.
Gramont accompanied his friend so far as the Bidassoa, which divided
France from Spain, and then took leave of him; and Bassompierre and his
suite crossed the little river and entered Spain, under the guidance of
the _coreo mayor_, or post-master, of the province of Guipuzcoa, who
escorted the party to a _venta_ near Irun, where they passed the night.
The next day’s journey brought them to Segura, and on the 28th they
crossed the barren limestone heights of the Sierra de San Adrian, and
proceeded, by way of Vittoria and Miranda de Ebro, to Burgos, where they
arrived on March 3.
At Burgos Bassompierre went to visit the cathedral, one of the marvels
of Gothic architecture in Spain, which he pronounces “_bien belle_,” and
saw “_el santo crucifisso_,” by which presumably he means the
much-revered image of Our Saviour known as the “Christo de Burgos.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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