A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An AutobiographyMcGilvary, Daniel
History
A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An Autobiography
McGilvary, Daniel
Lao (Tai people); Missions -- Lao (Tai people); Presbyterian Church in the U.S.A. -- Missions
The legend is that no one can cross the stream inside the cave and
return alive; and that beyond the stream, under the crest of the
mountain, there is an image of pure gold seven cubits high. One enters
the cave at a little distance from the stream, and finds first a grand
chamber which is a veritable temple, with arched dome, natural pulpit,
and innumerable images of Buddha, large and small. This place is
regarded as a most sacred shrine. Buddhist monks are always there
performing their devotions. The chamber is so dark that they have to use
tapers to see to read. The dim light and the long-drawn tones of the
worshippers produce a very weird impression.
From the temple-chamber narrow passages lead off in different
directions, till there is danger of losing one’s way in the labyrinth. I
followed Nān Inta and his sons to the stream, which is reached at some
distance farther on. Being neither tall nor a swimmer, I stopped and
sauntered about in the various rooms, waiting for my companions to
verify or to disprove the legend. Needless to say, both parts of it were
proved myths. My companions did return alive, and no golden image was
found. The cave is too damp to make it safe for one to remain long in
those distant passages. Farther on the tapers burned but very dimly; and
one would not choose to be left there in pitch darkness. We could
understand very well how the legend arose of Yaks that devour those that
intrude into their dark caverns. There is no doubt of the presence of a
deadly gas much more to be feared than the spirit of the great Lawa
king, which is believed to have taken up his abode there. We all
experienced more or less of the symptoms premonitory of malarial attack,
and before we got back to the town Nān Inta was shaking with a genuine
chill. A heroic dose, however, of Warburg’s tincture with quinine soon
set him to rights. In this case, then, as in many others, there is a
foundation of truth at the bottom of the legend.
That night we had a great audience. It was generally known that we
intended to explore the cave, and many, no doubt, came to see how we had
fared. It was well that Nān Inta had so far recovered from his morning’s
chill as to be ready to join in bearing testimony not only to the
falsity of the legend, but also to the truth of the Gospel. It was a
bright moonlight night, and the people listened till very late, while we
sang hymns, preached the Gospel, and pointed them to the better way. The
result was seen years after in the founding of a church there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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