A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An AutobiographyMcGilvary, Daniel
History
A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An Autobiography
McGilvary, Daniel
Lao (Tai people); Missions -- Lao (Tai people); Presbyterian Church in the U.S.A. -- Missions
The chief object of our trip was to visit, in their ancient homes, two
northern tribes of the Lāo race—the Kôn and the Lû—from which very many
of our parishioners in the southern provinces derived their origin. For,
under conditions which lasted very nearly down to our own time, there
was almost constant predatory warfare going on in this northern
country—stronger states raiding the weaker, and sweeping away the entire
population of the districts they overran, to plant them in their own
realms. Thus whole villages, and even entire districts, in the Lāo
provinces of Siam, are peopled by the descendants of such colonies of
captives. We found it unadvisable to attempt both visits in the same
season, and the Lû were the more accessible, living on the nearer slopes
of the Mê Kông valley. We went up on the west of the river along the
edge of the British territory, now known as the South Shan States, and
beyond it into Chinese territory, as far as Chieng Rung;[15] then,
returning, we made a somewhat wider sweep to the east of the river,
through French Indo-China; finally recrossing the river at Chieng Lāp,
where we struck once more our outgoing trail.
Footnote 15:
This name appears on some maps as Chieng Hung, initial _r_ in the
North being generally pronounced as _h_.—ED.
After leaving Mûang Len, the utmost point of a former trip, we travelled
awhile by a fine road along the summit of a ridge so regular as to seem
almost like an artificial embankment, and affording noble views over the
valley. At Wieng Mai, a recent offshoot of Mûang Yawng, we spent a most
interesting Saturday and Sunday. Here the Prince-Governor sent to ask if
he should not put up a sālā to shelter us during our stay. In the
morning we preached in the market-place, and afterwards I distributed
medicine and talked with the people till noon, when I had to flee away
to rest under the shade of a big tree by the river. The people seemed
hungry for the bread of life. I could not supply all the requests made
for copies of the Scriptures.
Mûang Yawng, the older and larger city, we reached on Monday forenoon,
after a two hours’ ride. An officer met us at the gate, and showed us to
the sālā. When the Chao Mawm heard of our arrival, he sent for us,
meeting us at the door. We had a very interesting interview, but he was
not inclined to talk on the subject of religion. He told me that the
city and district had been entirely depopulated in 1809 by a force from
Chiengmai, when “nothing was left behind but the ground.”[16] It had
recovered itself, however, and its population was now larger than that
of Lampūn. With Nān Suwan I visited the market and the Court. At the
latter place I learned that the British Commissioner would arrive the
next day. Knowing that everything would be in confusion, we decided to
move on the next morning.
Footnote 16:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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