A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An AutobiographyMcGilvary, Daniel
History
A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An Autobiography
McGilvary, Daniel
Lao (Tai people); Missions -- Lao (Tai people); Presbyterian Church in the U.S.A. -- Missions
The next Sunday we camped in the monastery grounds at Bān Hūa Ling. The
people began to assemble before breakfast, and long before it was time
for the morning service the grounds were full. The abbot, with his monks
and the officers, sat directly before me as I explained the method of
salvation through Jesus Christ. The audience listened most attentively.
At the close the abbot and the officers remained for further
conversation. The abbot expressed surprise at our errand. He had never
known of anybody’s travelling about simply to teach the people. Some
expressed fear of encountering the anger of the spirits if they should
no longer worship them. To this the doctor gave the scientific answer
that fevers and most other diseases were caused and propagated by
specific germs, over which the spirits have no control whatever. This
was to them a new idea, but they seemed to comprehend it. Next morning,
when we left them, the people followed us with expressions of regret.
When we reached Chieng Mên, a town on the western bank of the river and
opposite Lūang Prabāng, we found a European with a group of boys, who
turned out to be the French schoolmaster. He invited us to dine with him
that evening, and the next day aided us in crossing the river. Our first
duty in Lūang Prabāng was to report to the French authorities, M.
Vackle, the Commandant Supérieur, and M. Grant, the Commissaire. They
had been notified from Bangkok of our coming, and received us with
genuine French hospitality. We never met two more perfect gentlemen.
They even offered us a house; but, as the abbot of the principal
monastery was a personal friend of mine, they yielded to our preference
to stop with him, but only on the ground that there would be more
comfort and room for our men.
That evening we were invited to dine with M. Vackle. M. Grant and his
staff were present; and the dinner was a royal one, to which we were
prepared to do full justice. We had the embarrassment of not being able
to converse save through a native interpreter not well versed either in
French or in English. But our host was most considerate, as were also
his French guests. And every evening during our stay we dined with one
or another of the officials.
Next day we called on the Lāo “King,” as he is still euphemistically
called, though possessing only such powers as the French give him. When
we made our business call on the French officials to ask permission to
proceed on our missionary tour through the French territory, they were
very obliging. We freely discussed together alternative routes, and they
offered us passports for any of them. When at last with some hesitancy,
the question of permanent work and a mission station was broached, M.
Vackle replied that for that he had no authority. Application would have
to be made to the Governor General at Hanoi, and preferably through
Washington and Paris. The prospect still seemed hopeful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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