Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
Bishops and Mitred Abbots wore the same vestments as priests, but
with the addition of the _tunicle_ and _dalmatic_ below the chasuble,
sandals, gloves, a ring set with precious stones on the third finger of
the right hand, mitre, and pastoral staff.
The _dalmatic_ was a garment shorter than the alb, slit up for a
distance on either side. (Pl. 59, Fig. 3.) Like the chasuble, it was
made of rich material.
The _tunicle_, worn underneath the dalmatic, was similar to it in
shape, but made of linen.
The only ecclesiastical ornaments which underwent any change were the
mitre and crozier.
At first the mitre was of white linen, and low in height. As time went
on it was made of silk and ornamented with embroidery and jewels, and
it became higher in form. (From the time of the Reformation the mitre
was not recognised as part of episcopal attire in the Established
Church, but in 1885, after a lapse of 50 years, it was resumed by
the Bishop of Lincoln, who wrote it then for the first time amid
considerable protests.)
The _Pastoral Staff_, or so-called crozier, was borne alike by
Archbishops, Bishops, and Abbots, and was usually held in the left
hand or against the left arm, leaving the right free to be uplifted
in blessing. It terminated in a large shepherd’s crook or scroll, the
curved volute being often richly ornamented with foliage. The staff was
made of rarer wood, such as cedar or ebony, and was shod with a pointed
ferrule. The top was detachable, and was usually made of metal or of
ivory.
Before Archbishops was also carried a _Cross_, a staff bearing a cross
at the top. They also wore the pall, or palium, a narrow loop or
circle of white lambswool placed over the shoulders, with a weighted
band hanging down before and behind. Looked at from the front, it
appears like the letter Y. It was made only in Rome, and was especially
bestowed on all Archbishops by the Pope.
In processions the clergy wore cassock and surplice as they do now,
with the _almuce_, a large cap turned down over the shoulders, and
lined with fur, which varied in colour according to the degree of the
wearer; the _hood_ and the _cope_. The _cope_ was a kind of cloak, and
became the most gorgeous of mediæval ecclesiastical garments. It was
made in every conceivable colour, and heavily adorned with the richest
gold work encrusted with jewels.
When spread out flat, it was in shape a perfect semi-circle, and was
decorated at the front edges with bands of embroidery from collar to
hem.
A famous cope is the Syon Cope now preserved in the South Kensington
collection.
In the Middle Ages the clergy, when not engaged in their official
duties, often dressed similarly to the laity, and though they were
ordered to wear the tonsure and a sober dress, these instructions were
very often neglected and ignored.
Many of them dressed in bright colours, often in the extreme of
fashion, wearing knives at their girdles, brightly coloured shoes with
long toes, and jewellery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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