Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
A garment called a _super-totus_ (over-all), acting as an overcoat, was
commonly worn. It consisted of a circular piece of cloth with a hole
in the centre, through which the head was passed, and to it was often
attached a hood or _capuchon_, which became very popular and held its
own for about 300 years.
The costumes of women and of ordinary citizens were essentially the
same as in the preceding reigns, but the hair of the ladies was
gathered up into a network or caul of gold and silver filigree, instead
of being arranged in plaits.
Edward I. dressed in a very plain manner, differing little from an
ordinary citizen, and consequently there was little extravagance of
dress in his reign. The ladies, however, wore their garments unconfined
at the waist, very full, and with long trains.
On account of their extravagance in this respect, they were very much
satirised by contemporary writers. They also wore a very ugly form
of the wimple. There was no change in the dress of the lower classes
excepting that a kind of smock frock, made generally of canvas or
fustian, was worn by both sexes. Edward II., with his favourites,
Gaveston and the Despensers, made the Court “a wild debauch of costume
and foppish eccentricities.”
The costume of ladies changed very little during this reign, but the
practice of wearing the head uncovered became more general.
In the costume of men, the greatest change was the displacement of the
loose tunic or dalmatica by a garment called the _côte-hardi_, fitting
tightly from the neck to the waist, with a skirt below.
The hood or capuchon was modified by the tail or point at the back,
being extended until it reached to the waist, this tail being often
wound round the neck in cold weather as a kind of muffler.
A similar kind of hood was also in use, covering the head and shoulders
and reaching to the elbow.
In this reign a new source of authentic information is available in the
brasses which are found in our churches. They are very well preserved,
and show the details of costume very clearly and accurately. For this
reason they are invaluable.
Edward III. has been called “the King who taught the English people how
to dress,” and it is worthy of note that the costumes worn during his
reign followed the lines of the body itself.
The use of the côti-hardi increased. It was often made of very
expensive materials, and long narrow strips of white cloth called
_tippets_ were added to the sleeves, reaching from the elbow to the
knee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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