Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
(Fig. 1): Capitals in Lincoln Cathedral (A.D. 1220), showing
the moulded abacus (A) with undercutting, “stiff-leaf”
foliage, and the “dog-tooth” ornament used between the shafts.
(Fig. 2): Transitional Norman capital, at Oakham Castle,
Rutland (built between A.D. 1165 and 1191). An excellent
specimen of transitional work, retaining a good deal of the
Norman character, but late and rich. (Fig. 3): Moulded capital
in the form of a plain bell reversed, from Westminster Abbey
(A.D. 1250). (Figs. 4, 5, 6): Buttresses. (Fig. 7): Flying
buttresses, from Westminster Abbey. (Figs. 8 and 9): Plans of
Early English columns.]
MIXED MAIL AND PLATE ARMOUR.
Arms and armour, with all the accompaniments of chivalry, during the
fourteenth century reached a pitch of great splendour. The French
Wars and the extravagance of costume at the Courts of Edward III. and
Richard II. encouraged this. From the constant use of armour in the
wars and in the tournament, many modifications were found necessary to
render it more comfortable and also more thoroughly protective. Towards
the end of the thirteenth century additions had been made to the
mail for the latter purpose, and this practice was continued in the
fourteenth century by the addition of pieces of “plate” or sheet steel,
until in the early part of the fifteenth century, knights were clothed
in complete suits of plate armour.
The change was, however, very gradual, and the evolution may be best
traced by considering it as taking place in certain fairly definite
stages. The following is the usual division adopted:
_1st Period_: c. 1300 A.D.--c. 1325 A.D. _2nd Period_: c. 1325 A.D.--c.
1335 A.D. _3rd Period_: c. 1335 A.D.--c. 1360 A.D. _4th Period_: c. 1360
A.D.--c. 1405 A.D. _5th or Transition Period_: c. 1405 A.D.--c. 1410 A.D.
_1st Period_: c. 1300 A.D.--c. 1325 A.D. During this period the mail
armour remained practically the same, but steel plates were fastened by
straps (1) over the back of the upper arm and the front of the fore-arm
(the parts most exposed to a blow); (2) over the shins (_jambarts_)
and continued over the front of the feet as a series of metal plates
riveted to one another, called _sollerets_; (3) in front of the
shoulders and to protect the armpits (_roundles_.)
Gauntlets or armoured gloves (with separate fingers) were introduced
about this time.
The surcoat was worn shorter and with less fulness about the body.
_2nd Period_: c. 1325 A.D.--c. 1335 A.D. The surcoat was superseded by
a garment called a _cyclas_, which was slit open and laced up at the
sides, and was much shorter in front than behind. (See Fig. 1, Pl. 36.)
It thus shows the escalloped and fringed border of a padded garment or
_gambeson_ worn between the cyclas and the mail hauberk, while below
the mail was worn another padded garment--the _haketon_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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