Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
Little change was made in the costumes of ladies during these periods,
but there was a more wonderful variety in the head-dresses--many of them
striking and even picturesque--than during any other century of English
history. In the early part of this period the _crespine_ or golden net
caul, into which the hair was gathered (Fig. 12), partly covered by a
veil, was very common. The côte-hardi was still very popular, but many
ladies wore the full outer garment or mantle, called the _houppelande_,
buttoned high up to the neck, with wide sleeves, and reaching down to
the feet. (Fig. 4.)
Long-trained gowns were also worn, with stomachers, trimmed with
fur and velvet, and these displaced the super-tunic. Fur was very
extensively used by all classes, to the great disgust and contempt of
some contemporary writers.
Sumptuary laws passed in the reign of Henry IV. prohibited “the wearing
of furs of ermine, lettice, pure minivers, or grey,” by the wives of
esquires, unless they were noble themselves or their husbands held the
office of Mayor of certain towns.
In the reign of Henry VI. the previous fashions were continued,
with numerous fantastic additions. Towards the end of the reign,
short-waisted gowns were worn, girded tightly at the waist, with
enormous trains and with turn-over collars of fur or velvet coming to a
point in front. Sleeves were worn of all descriptions.
The different varieties of head-dresses were known as (1) the _turban_,
(2) the _horned_ head-dress, (3) the _heart-shaped_ head-dress, and (4)
the _forked_ head-dress.
_The Turban Head-dress_ (Fig. 7) was in fashion for some time, even
continuing until the next century, and was probably based upon the
Turkish turban.
It consisted of a light framework of wire, covered with silk or other
rich material.
_The Horned Head-dress_ (Fig. 6) was probably the most grotesque form
of head-dress worn in this reign. The cauls at the side of the head
were made very large, and horns, from which depended the veil, extended
horizontally on either side of the head. This came in for very severe
condemnation and satire by the writers of the time, being compared to
the horns of the snail, of the unicorn, of the hart, and even of the
devil himself.
The horns were worn so large that in some places “it was judged
necessary to enlarge the doors of the apartments,” and when entering a
room the wearers had “to turn aside and stoop.”
_The Heart-shaped Head-dress_ (Fig. 9) was formed by the cauls being
made higher, so that the pad resting on them was pushed upward at the
sides, and the head-dress assumed the shape of a heart.
_The Forked Head-dress_ (Fig. 10) was a variation of the horned
head-dress, in which the horns were placed vertically instead of
horizontally.
The costumes of the reigns of the Yorkist Kings are very amply
illustrated from the numerous effigies, brasses, and MSS., and from the
newly invented wood blocks used in the new art of printing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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