The doublet had a long waist, and both it and the trunk hose were heavily slashed. A short cloak or mantle with a standing collar, a ruff, and a hat with band and feathers, were also worn. At first the doublet was worn tight-fitting, but later in her reign the “peascod-bellied” variety was introduced. It is seen in the body dress of our old friend Punch, “whose wardrobe of Italian origin dates as nearly as possible from this period.” It fitted the body tightly, and was carried down to a long peak in front, whence it obtained the name “peascod,” and it was stuffed or “bombasted” to the required shape. Trunk hose were stuffed with wool, rags or bran, and were made very large. Fig. 13 is a good example of the dress of a nobleman of this period. The hats had high crowns and broad brims. Beards, which had been worn in the reign of Henry VIII., continued in the reign of Elizabeth. [Illustration: PLATE 42. (Fig. 1): Male costume of the reign of Henry VII., “a fair specimen of the general form of dress adopted by the gentlemen of the age.” It was difficult at this time to distinguish one sex by the dress from another. (From Royal MS., 19, C 8, A.D. 1496.) (Fig. 2): Costume of a gentleman of the Early Tudor period, with a close-fitting hat to which is affixed long pendant streamers of cloth. “This figure is remarkable for its simplicity, and may be received as the type of a gentleman unspoiled by the foppery of extravagance.” (From Harl. MS. No. 4,425, A.D. 1479) one of the last of the priceless Illuminated MSS., and one of the chief authorities for the costume of the earlier part of this reign. (Fig. 3): Flat cap, which was the general head-dress of men in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Edward VI. (Fig. 4): Hat with plumes of feathers of the time of Henry VII. From the same MSS. as (Fig. 2.) (Fig. 5): Hat of the Yeoman of the Guard, with three plumes, from a contemporary picture. (Fig. 6): Hat of the time of Elizabeth, from a picture of her funeral. (Figs. 7 and 9): “Copotain” hats of the time of Elizabeth, from contemporary pictures. (Fig. 8): Another common form of hat of the time of Elizabeth. (Figs. 10 and 11): “Sabbatons,” or shoes with very broad toes, puffed and slashed, in fashion in the reign of Henry VIII. They were generally made of black velvet or leather with silk in the slashings. (From contemporary sources.) (Fig. 12): Ordinary costume of the middle classes such as was worn by the citizens and merchants of London. (From Heywood’s “Parable of the Spider and the Fly,” 1556 A.D.) (Fig. 13): Costume of a nobleman of the reign of Elizabeth. He wears an immense ruff, “a peascod-bellied doublet,” quilted or stuffed and covered with slashes. He also has Venetian breeches, slashed like the doublet, stockings of fine black yarn, and shoes of white leather. (From a portrait of the reign of Elizabeth.) (Fig. 14): Wide, stuffed breeches, called “bombasted” trunk