A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
_W. Bull._ The tailors are the best judges of that; but Champaign,
I suppose.
_Mock._ Is Champaign a tailor? Methinks it were a fitter name for a
wig-maker. I think they call my wig a campaign.
_W. Bull._ You're clear out, sir--clear out. Champaign is a fine
liquor, which all great beaux drink to make 'em witty.
_Mock._ Witty! O, by the universe, I must be witty! I'll drink
nothing else; I never was witty in my life. Here, Club, bring us a
bottle of what d'ye call it--the witty liquor.'
The Widow having retired, Club, Mockmode's servant, reënters with a
bottle and glasses.
'_Mock._ Is that the witty liquor? Come, fill the glasses.... But
where's the wit now, Club? Have you found it?
_Club._ Egad, master, I think 'tis a very good jest.
_Mock._ What?
_Club._ Why, drinking. You'll find, master, that this same
gentleman in the straw doublet, this same Will o' the Wisp, is a
wit at the bottom. Here, here, master, how it puns and quibbles in
the glass![293]
_Mock._ By the universe, now I have it; the wit lies in the
jingling! All wit consists most in jingling. Hear how the glasses
rhyme to one another.... I fancy this same wine is all sold at
Will's Coffee-house.'
Here we have a palpable hit at the source of inspiration indulged in
by many of the wits and rhymesters who gathered round 'glorious John
Dryden' within the hallowed walls of that famous rendezvous. And likely
enough, when they
'were all at supper, all in good humour, Champaign was the word,
and wit flew about the room like a pack of losing cards.'[294]
Farquhar seems, above all others, to have hailed the new wine with
pleasure. We all remember the 'red Burgundy' which saves Mirabel from
his perilous position in the cut-throats' den; but the flighty hero of
the _Inconstant_ is equally enthusiastic over sparkling wine when he
exclaims:
'Give me the plump Venetian, brisk and sanguine, that smiles upon
me like the glowing sun, and meets my lips like sparkling wine,
her person shining as the glass, and spirit like the foaming
liquor.'[295]
The benignant influence of the beverage is, moreover, referred to by
Farquhar in his epilogue to the _Constant Couple_, where, in alluding
to the critics, it is said that
'To coffee some retreat to save their pockets,
Others, more generous, damn the play at Locket's;
But there, I hope, the author's fears are vain,
Malice ne'er spoke in generous Champain.'[296]
Further, he makes Benjamin Wouldbe exclaim:
'Show me that proud stoick that can bear success and Champain;
philosophy can support us in hard fortune, but who can have
patience in prosperity?'[297]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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