A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
As to the Prince Regent's brothers, we know that the Duke of York
was such a powerful toper, that 'six bottles of Claret after dinner
scarce made a perceptible change in his countenance,'[362] and remember
the Duke of Clarence making his appearance at the table of the Royal
household at Windsor, and getting so helplessly drunk on Champagne as
to be utterly incapable of keeping his promise to open the ball that
evening with his sister Mary.[363] Two prominent orators of that day
are credited with _mots_ upon Champagne. Curran said, _apropos_ of the
rapid but transient intoxication produced by this wine, that 'Champagne
made a runaway rap at a man's head;' while Canning maintained that any
man who said he really liked dry Champagne simply lied.
After Waterloo, although a few _gourmets_ continued to prefer the
still wine, sparkling Champagne became the almost universally accepted
variety. Nevertheless, Henderson, while noting that 'by Champagne wine
is usually understood a sparkling or frothy liquor,' gives the foremost
place to the wine of Sillery, which, he remarks, 'has always been in
much request in England, probably on account of its superior strength
and durable quality.' He extols the Ay wine as 'an exquisite liquor,
lighter and sweeter than the Sillery, and accompanied by a delicate
flavour and aroma somewhat analogous to that of the pine-apple.'[364]
The poets of the first half of the present century have hardly done
justice to Champagne. Tom Moore, the most Anacreontic of them all,
although ready, like his Grecian prototype, to 'pledge the universe in
wine,' the merits of which he was continually chanting in the abstract,
has seldom been so invidious as to particularise any especial vintage.
Champagne, the wine of all others best fitted to inspire his bright
and sparkling lyrics, has received but scant attention in his earlier
productions. Bob Fudge, writing from Paris in 1818, is made to speak
approvingly of Beaune and Chambertin, but only mentions Champagne as a
vehicle in which to _sauter_ kidneys;[365] and in the _Sceptic_ it is
simply brought in to point a moral respecting the senses:
'Habit so mars them, that the Russian swain
Will sigh for train-oil while he sips Champagne.'[366]
In two instances only the poet who sang in such lively numbers of woman
and wine pointedly refers to the vintage of the Champagne. One is when
he says:
'If ever you've seen a party
Relieved from the presence of Ned,
How instantly joyous and hearty
They've grown when the damper was fled.
You may guess what a gay piece of work,
What delight to Champagne it must be,
To get rid of its bore of a cork,
And come sparkling to you, love, and me.'[367]
And his description of a summer _fête_ is indeed
'a mere terrestrial strain
Inspired by naught but pink Champagne;'[368]
such as might be penned
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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