A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
'Comus all allows
Champaign, dice, music, or your neighbour's spouse,'[374]
did the vintage of the Marne justice in his verses. In _Don Juan_ he
shows himself not insensible to the charms of
'Champagne with foaming whirls
As white as Cleopatra's melted pearls.'[375]
The wine, moreover, furnishes two striking comparisons in that
poem--one when he observes that
'The evaporation of a joyous day
Is like the last glass of Champagne, without
The foam which made its virgin bumper gay;'[376]
and the other, where, in his sketch of Lady Adeline Amundeville, he
rejects the trite metaphor of the snow-covered volcano in favour of
'a bottle of Champagne
Frozen into a very vinous ice,
Which leaves few drops of that immortal rain;
Yet in the very centre, past all price,
About a liquid glassful will remain;
And this is stronger than the strongest grape
Could e'er express in its expanded shape:
'Tis the whole spirit brought to a quintessence;
And thus the chilliest aspects may concentre
A hidden nectar under a cold presence.'[377]
Although we find Henderson remarking, in 1822, that
'the pink Champagne is less in request than the colourless, and has
in fact nothing to entitle it to the preference,'
yet wine of this tint continued to reappear from time to time, securing
a transitory popularity from its attractive appearance, which caused
it to be likened to the dying reflection of the setting sun on a clear
stream. An interesting incident in connection with its advent on one
of these occasions at the table of Rogers, the banker-poet, has been
recorded by Mr. R. A. Tracy Gould of the American Bar. He was dining,
it seems, in company with Tom Moore and John Kenyon, with Rogers at
St. James's-place, when their host, who had recently received through
the French Ambassador a present of a case of pink Champagne from Louis
Philippe, had the first bottle of it produced at the end of the dinner.
The saucer-shaped Champagne glasses were then just coming into use, and
pink Champagne, which was a revived novelty in England at that moment,
looked singularly beautiful in them, crowned with its snow-white foam.
Kenyon, who, as Gould remarks, was nothing if not declamatory, held up
his glass, and apostrophised it as follows:
'Lily on liquid roses floating!
So floats yon foam o'er pink Champagne!
Fain would I join such pleasant boating,
And prove that ruby main,
And float away on wine!'
This being vociferously applauded, after a few minutes' pause he added
the second verse:
'Those seas are dangerous, graybeards swear,
Whose sea-beach is the goblet's brim;
And here it is they drown dull Care--
But what care we for him?
So we but float on wine!'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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