A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
As the Côte d'Avize lies to the south-east, to reach it we have to
retrace our steps to Pierry, and follow the road which there branches
off, leaving on our right hand the vineyards of Chavot, Monthelon, and
Grauves, now of no particular note, although of undoubted antiquity,
Blanche of Castille, Countess of Champagne, having endowed the Abbey of
Argensolles, on its foundation in 1224, with sundry strips of vineland,
including one at Grauves, possibly the vineyard of Les Roualles,
which yields a wine not unlike certain growths of the Mountain of
Reims. After passing through Cuis, where the slopes, planted with
both black and white varieties of vines, are extremely abrupt, and
where Simon la Bole, man-at-arms of Epernay, and his wife Basile
gave, in 1210, 'four hogsheads of _vinage_ to be taken annually' to
Hugo, Abbot of St. Martin at Epernay, we eventually reach Cramant,
one of the grand _premiers crus_ of the Champagne. From the vineyards
around this picturesque little village, and extending along the
somewhat precipitous Côte de Saran--a prominent object, on which is M.
Moët's handsome château--there is vintaged a wine from white grapes,
especially remarkable for lightness and delicacy and the richness
of its bouquet, and an admixture of which is essential to every
first-class Champagne _cuvée_.
From Cramant the road runs direct to Avize, a large thriving village,
lying at the foot of vineyard slopes, where numerous Champagne firms
have established themselves. Its prosperity dates from the commencement
of the last century (1715), when the Count de Lhery, its feudal lord,
cleared away the remains of its ancient ramparts, filled up the
moat, and planted the ground with vines, the produce of which proved
admirably suited for the sparkling wines then coming into vogue.
Prior to this the Avize wine, made almost entirely from white grapes,
fetched only from 25 to 30 francs the queue; but being found well
adapted for the manufacture of the strongly-effervescent wine known
as _saute-bouchon_, it soon commanded as much as 300 francs, and the
arpent of vineyard rose in value from 250 to 2000 francs.[392] To-day
the light delicate wine of Avize is classed, like that of Cramant, as
a _premier cru_, and it is the same with the wine of Oger,[393] lying
a little to the south, while the neighbouring growths of Le Mesnil
hold a slightly inferior rank. The latter village and its gray Gothic
church lie under the hill in the midst of vines that almost climb the
forest-crowned summit. The stony soil hereabouts is said to be better
adapted to the cultivation of white than of black grapes; besides
which, the wines of Le Mesnil are remarkable for their effervescent
properties.
[Illustration: LE MESNIL AND ITS VINEYARDS.]
[Illustration: VIEW OF VERTUS.]
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