A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
Later owners of the famous Sillery cru did their best to sustain its
reputation, and Arthur Young, who stopped here in 1787, speaks of the
Marquis de Sillery as 'the greatest wine-farmer in the Champagne,'
having on his own hands 180 arpents of vines, and cellar-room for a
couple of hundred pièces of wine.[402] Among more recent appreciation
of the merits of Sillery sec may be mentioned the Cossacks, who
pillaged the district in 1814, and who, not being able to carry off all
the wine from the cellar of the Count de Valence at Sillery, stove in
some thirty pièces of the best, and set the place afloat.[403]
The drive from Reims to Sillery has nothing attractive about it. A
long, straight, level road bordered by trees intersects a broad tract
of open country, skirted on the right by the Petite Montagne of Reims,
with antiquated villages nestled among the dense woodland. After
crossing the Châlons line of railway--near where one of the new forts
constructed for the defence of Reims rises up behind the villages and
vineyards of Cernay and Nogent l'Abbesse--the country becomes more
undulating. Poplars border the broad Marne canal, and a low fringe of
foliage marks the course of the languid river Vesle, on the banks of
which is Taissy, famous in the old days for its wines, great favourites
with Sully, and which almost lured Henri Quatre from his allegiance to
the vintages of Ay and Arbois that he loved so well.[404]
To the left rises Mont de la Pompelle, where the first Christians of
Reims suffered martyrdom, and where, in 1658, the Spaniards under
Montal, when attempting to ravage the vineyards of the district,
were repulsed with terrible slaughter by the Rémois militia, led on
by Grandpré. A quarter of a century ago the low ground on our right
near Sillery was planted with vines by the late M. Jacquesson, the
then owner of the Sillery estate, and a large Champagne manufacturer
at Châlons, who was anxious to resuscitate the ancient reputation
of the domain. Under the advice of Dr. Guyot, the well-known writer
on viticulture, he planted the vines in deep trenches, which led to
the vineyards being punningly termed Jacquesson's _celery_ beds. To
shield the vines from hailstorms prevalent in the district, and the
more dangerous spring frosts, so fatal to vines planted in low-lying
situations, long rolls of straw-matting were stored close at hand with
which to roof them over when needful. These precautions were scarcely
needed, however; the vines languished through moisture at the roots,
and eventually were mostly rooted up.
[Illustration: HENRI QUATRE.]
[Illustration: CHÂTEAU DE SILLERY.]
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