A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
When the vine has attained its fifth year it is allowed to rest for a
couple of years, and then the provining is resumed, the shoots being
dispersed in any direction throughout the vineyard, so as to fill up
vacancies. The plants remain in this condition henceforward, merely
requiring to be renewed from time to time by judicious provining. For
instance, it is sometimes found necessary to bend one of the shoots
round into a circle, so that its end may issue from the ground at
the point occupied by the parent stock. The system of provinage is
sometimes carried to excess in the Champagne, with a view of increasing
the yield of wine, which suffers, however, in quality. The network of
roots, too, renders the various operations of cultivation difficult and
dangerous, as they are liable to be injured by the short-handled hoe in
universal use among the Champenois vine-dressers.
[Illustration: TRIPLE 'PROVINAGE' TO REPLACE THE PARENT STOCK.]
Viticulturists inclined to make experiments have tried the system of
arranging the vines in transverse and longitudinal lines, quincunxes,
&c., or have replaced their vine-stakes with iron wires supported by
wooden pickets. Some of these experiments have proved successful,
although none of them are as yet in general use.
[Illustration: VINE DRESSER'S HOE.]
[Illustration: VINE PRIOR TO THE FEBRUARY PRUNING, SHOWING THE EXTENT
OF ROOT.]
The first operation of importance carried out during the year in the
vineyards is the 'taille,' or pruning, which takes place in February,
and consists in cutting away the superfluous shoots, simply leaving
one--or, if it is intended to multiply by provinage, two--on each
stock. This is followed about March or April by the 'bêchage,' or
'hoyerie'--that is, the digging round the roots of the vine--with which
is combined the provinage. A trench being opened, as already noted, and
the vine laid bare to the roots, it is bent down so that, on filling
up the trench with earth and manure, the stock is entirely covered and
only the new wood appears above ground. This new wood is then shortened
back, and the stakes intended for the support of the vines are fixed in
the ground. These stakes are set up in the spring of the year by men
or women, the former of whom force them into the ground by pressing
against them with their chest, which is protected with a shield of
wood. The women use a mallet, or have recourse to a special appliance,
in working which the foot plays the principal part. The latter method
is the least fatiguing, and in some localities is practised by the men.
An expert labourer will set up as many as 5000 stakes in the course of
the day. When of oak these stakes cost sixty francs the thousand; and
as the close system of plantation followed in the Champagne renders the
employment of no less than 24,000 stakes necessary on every acre of
land, the cost per acre of propping up the vines amounts to upwards of
57_l._, or more than treble what it is in the Médoc and quadruple what
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