Period of the Champagne vintage--Vintagers summoned by beat of drum--Early morning the best time for plucking the grapes--Excitement in the neighbouring villages at vintage-time--Vintagers at work--Mules employed to convey the gathered grapes down the steeper slopes--The fruit carefully examined before being taken to the wine-press--Arrival of the grapes at the vendangeoir--They are subjected to three squeezes, and then to the 'rébêche'--The must is pumped into casks and left to ferment--Only a few of the vine-proprietors in the Champagne press their own grapes--The prices the grapes command--Air of jollity throughout the district during the vintage--Every one is interested in it, and profits by it--Vintagers' fête on St. Vincent's-day--Endless philandering between the sturdy sons of toil and the sunburnt daughters of labour. [Illustration: WINE-PRESS IN THE CHAMPAGNE.] When the weather has been exceedingly propitious, the vintage in the Champagne commences as early as the third week in September, and in good average years the pickers set to work during the first week of October. If, however, the summer has been an indifferent one, and only an inferior vintage is looked forward to, it is scarcely before the latter half of October that the gathering of the grapes is proceeded with. There is no vintage-ban in the Champagne, as in Burgundy and other parts of France; but, as a rule, the growers of Ay and of the neighbouring slopes commence operations a week or more earlier than those of the Mountain of Reims, whilst around Cramant and Avize, the white-grape region, the vintagers usually set to work when in the other districts they have nearly finished. [Illustration: THE CHAMPAGNE VINTAGE IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF EPERNAY.] The pleasantest season of the year to visit the Champagne is certainly during the vintage. When this is about to commence, the vintagers--some of whom come from Sainte Menehould, forty miles distant, while others hail from as far as Lorraine--are summoned at daybreak by beat of drum in the market-places of the villages adjacent to the vineyards, and then and there a price is made for the day's labour. This, as we have already explained, is generally either a franc and a half, with food consisting of three meals, or two francs and a half, rising on exceptional occasions to three francs, without food, children being paid a franc and a half. The rate of wage satisfactorily arranged, the gangs start off to the vineyards, headed by their overseers.