A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
By this time the fermentation is over; but in the interval, commencing
from a few days after the bottling of the wine, a loose dark-brown
sediment has been forming, which has now settled on the lower side of
the bottle, and to get rid of which is a delicate and tedious task. As
the time approaches for preparing the wine for shipment, the bottles
are placed _sur pointe_, as it is termed--that is to say, slantingly
in racks with their necks downwards, the inclination being increased
from time to time to one more abrupt.[414] The object of this change in
their position is to cause the sediment to leave the side of the bottle
where it has gathered. Afterwards it becomes necessary to twist and
turn it and coagulate it, as it were, until it forms a kind of muddy
ball, and eventually to get it well down into the neck of the bottle,
so that it may be finally expelled with a bang when the temporary cork
is removed and the proper one adjusted. To accomplish this the bottles
are sharply turned in one direction every day for at least a month or
six weeks, the time being indefinitely extended until the sediment
shows a disposition to settle near the cork. The younger the wine the
longer the period necessary for the bottles to be shaken, new wine
often requiring as much as three months. Only a thoroughly practised
hand can give the right amount of revolution and the requisite degree
of slope; and in some of the cellars men were pointed out to us who had
acquired such dexterity as to be able at a pinch to shake with their
two hands as many as 50,000 bottles in a single day, whilst 30,000 to
40,000 is by no means an uncommon performance.
[Illustration]
Some of these men have spent thirty or forty years of their lives
engaged in this perpetual task. Fancy being entombed all alone day
after day in vaults which are invariably dark and gloomy, and often
cold and dank, and being obliged to twist sixty to seventy of these
bottles every minute throughout the day of ten hours! Why, the
treadmill and the crank, with their periodical respites, must be
pastime compared to this maddeningly monotonous occupation, which
combines hard labour, with the wrist, at any rate, with next to
solitary confinement. One can understand these men becoming gloomy and
taciturn, and affirming that they sometimes see devils hovering over
the bottle-racks and frantically shaking the bottles beside them, or
else grinning at them as they pursue their humdrum task. Still it may
be taken for granted that the men who reach this stage are accustomed
to drink freely of raw spirits, as an antidote to the damp to which
they are exposed, and merely pay the penalty of their over-indulgence.
[Illustration]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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