A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
On passing through the large _porte-cochère_ giving entrance to
Messrs. Heidsieck's principal establishment, one finds oneself in a
small courtyard, with the surrounding buildings overgrown with ivy
and venerable vines. On the left is a dwelling-house enriched with
elaborate mouldings and cornices, and at the farther end of the court
is the entrance to the cellars, surmounted by a sun-dial bearing
the date 1829. The latter, however, is no criterion of the age of
the buildings themselves, as these were occupied by the firm at its
foundation, towards the close of the last century. We are first
conducted into an antiquated-looking low cellier, the roof of which
is sustained with rude timber supports, and here bottles of wine are
being labelled and packed, although this is but a mere adjunct to the
adjacent spacious packing-room, provided with its loading platform
and communicating directly with the public road. At the time of our
visit this hall was gaily decorated with flags and inscriptions, the
day before having been the fête of St. Jean, when the firm entertain
the people in their employ with a banquet and a ball, at which the
choicest wine of the house liberally flows. From the packing-room we
descend into the cellars, which, like all the more ancient vaults in
Reims, have been constructed on no regular plan. Here we thread our
way between piles after piles of bottles, many of which, having passed
through the hands of the disgorger, are awaiting their customary
adornment. The lower tier of cellars is mostly stored with _vin sur
pointe_, and bottles with their necks downward are encountered in
endless monotony along a score or more of long galleries. The only
variation in our lengthened promenade is when we come upon some
solitary workman engaged in his monotonous task of shaking his 30,000
or 40,000 bottles per diem.
The disgorging at Messrs. Heidsieck's takes place, in accordance with
the good old rule, in the cellars underground, where we noticed large
stocks of wine three and five years old, the former in the first stage
of _sur pointe_, and the latter awaiting shipment. It is a specialty of
the house to ship only matured wine, which is necessarily of a higher
character than the ordinary youthful growths, for a few years have a
wonderful influence in developing the finer qualities of Champagne. At
the time of our visit, in the spring of 1877, when the English market
was being glutted with the crude full-bodied wine of 1874, Messrs.
Heidsieck were continuing to ship wines of 1870 and 1872, beautifully
rounded by keeping, and of fine flavour and great delicacy of perfume.
Of these thoroughly matured wines the firm had fully a year's
consumption on hand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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