A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
Underneath this building there are three stories of cellars--an
exceedingly rare thing anywhere in the Champagne--all constructed
in solid masonry on a uniform plan, each story comprising two wide
galleries, running parallel with each other and connected by means of
transverse passages. Spite of the great depth to which these cellars
descend, they are perfectly dry; the ventilation, too, is excellent;
and their different temperatures render them especially suitable for
the storage of Champagne, the temperature of the lowest cellar being 6°
Centigrade (43° Fahrenheit), or one degree Centigrade below the cellar
immediately above, which in its turn is two degrees below the uppermost
of all. The advantage of this is that, when the wine develops an excess
of effervescence, any undue proportion of breakages can be checked by
removing the bottles to a lower cellar, and consequently into a lower
temperature.
The first cellars we enter are closely stacked with wine in bottle,
which is gradually clearing itself by the formation of a deposit; while
in an adjoining cellar on the same level the operations of disgorging,
liqueuring, and corking are going on. At the end of this gallery is a
spacious compartment, where a large stock of _pure Champagne_ cognac
of grand vintages is stored for cask and liqueur use. In the cellars
immediately beneath, bottles of wine repose in solid stacks ready for
the _dégorgeur_; while others rest in racks, in order that they may
undergo their daily shaking. In the lowest cellars reserved wine in
cask is stored, as it best retains its natural freshness and purity
in a very cool place. All air is carefully excluded from the casks;
any ullage is immediately replaced; and, as evaporation is continually
going on, the casks are examined every fortnight, when any deficiency
is at once replenished. At Messrs. Périnet et Fils', as at all the
first-class establishments, the _vin brut_ is a _mélange_ comprising
the produce of some of the best vineyards, and has every possible
attention paid to it during its progressive stages of development.
From the second tier of cellars at Messrs. Périnet et Fils' a gallery
extends, under the Rue St. Hilaire, to some extensive vaults excavated
beneath an adjacent building, in which the Reims Military Club is
installed. These vaults, arranged in two separate stories, are eight
in number, and in them we found a quarter of a million bottles of
_vin brut_, reposing either in solid stacks or _sur pointe_, the
latter going through their daily shaking in order to fit them for the
operation of _dégorgement_. On the whole the cellars of Périnet et
Fils, including the six long galleries already described, suffice for
the storage of a million bottles of Champagne.
[Illustration: THE CELLIER AND CELLARS OF MESSRS. PÉRINET ET FILS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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