A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
MM. de St. Marceaux & Co. have the honour of supplying the King of the
Belgians, the President of the French Republic, and several German
potentates with an exceedingly delicate Champagne known as the Royal
St. Marceaux. The same wine is popular in Russia and other parts of
Europe, just as the Dry Royal of the firm is much esteemed in the
United States. The brand of the house most appreciated in this country
is its Carte d'Or, a very dry wine, the extra superior quality of the
firm, which secured the first place at a recent Champagne competition
in England.
Some little distance beyond the remnants of the ancient fortifications
of Reims, skirting the Butte de St. Nicaise, is the establishment
of Veuve Morelle & Co., successors to Veuve Max Sutaine & Co. This
house was founded in 1823 by the late M. Maxime Sutaine, who, like
several other notabilities in the Reims wine trade, was as familiar
with art and science as with the special industry to which he had
devoted himself. An amateur painter of no mean skill, he showed himself
thoroughly at home in the biographical and critical notices on artists
and art in his native province which he produced. His name, however,
is chiefly identified in literature with his _Essai sur le Vin de
Champagne_.[425] This work may be regarded as the first attempt to
collect the scattered materials relating to the history of Champagne
wine, and to deal with them in a critical spirit. Though necessarily
imperfect, its value is undoubtedly great, and it has been frequently
quoted from in the present volume. The family of Sutaine long held
an honourable position at Reims, the name of one of M. Max Sutaine's
immediate ancestors, who filled the position of lieutenant of the city
in 1765, appearing on the bronze slab at the base of the statue of
Louis XV. in the Place Royale, erected during that year.
[Illustration: THE CELLARS OF MAX SUTAINE AND CO. IN THE CHEMIN DE LA
PROCESSION, REIMS.]
The cellars of the firm of Veuve Morelle & Co., successors to Max
Sutaine & Co., are very extensive; and while more than usually
picturesque in appearance, are in every respect admirably adapted for
the rearing and development of the delicate wines of the Champagne.
These cellars, hewn out of the chalk, are of great depth. The firm
has been careful to adhere to the good traditions of its predecessors
in the composition of its cuvées, and at the same time to avoid those
errors which experience and the resources of modern science have made
manifest. Its rule is only to send out wines of a good cru, and never
before they are thoroughly matured, thereby avoiding the shipment of
young wines. The chief kinds bearing the brand of Max Sutaine & Co. are
Vin Brut (of great years), Extra Dry, Creaming Sillery, and Bouzy for
England, Sillery Sec for Russia, and Verzenay and Cabinet for Germany
and Belgium.
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