A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
The establishment of Roper Frères is adjacent to a handsome modern
house standing back from the road in a large and pleasant garden,
bounded by vineyards on two of its sides. In the celliers all the
conveniences pertaining to a modern Champagne establishment are to be
found, while extending beneath the garden are the extensive cellars
of the firm, comprising two stories of long and spacious galleries
excavated in the chalk, their walls and roofs being supported whenever
necessary by masonry. A curious feature about these cellars is that
the roots of the larger trees in the garden above have penetrated the
roof of the upper story, and hang pendent overhead like innumerable
stalactites. Here, after the comparatively new wine of 1874 had been
shown to us--including samples of the vin brut or natural Champagne of
which the firm make a specialty at a moderate price--some choice old
Champagnes were brought forth, including the fine vintages of 1865,
1857, and 1846. The latter wine had of course preserved very little of
its effervescence, still its flavour was exceedingly fine, being soft
and delicate to a degree. At the Vienna Exhibition of 1873, and the
London Exhibition of 1874, the collection of Champagnes exhibited by
Roper Frères met with favourable recognition from the international
juries.
Our tour through the Champagne vineyards and wine-cellars here comes
to an end. It is true there are important establishments at Châlons,
notably those of the Perriers, Freminet et Fils, Dagonet et Fils,
and Jacquard Frères. As, however, any description of these would be
little else than a recapitulation of something we have already said, we
content ourselves with merely notifying their existence, and close the
present chapter with a poem on Champagne, from the pen of M. Amaury de
Cazanove of Avize:
ODE AU CHAMPAGNE.
Pour ta beauté, pour ta gloire, ô Patrie,
Nous t'adorons ... surtout pour tes malheurs!
Oublions-les.... Avec idolâtrie,
Chantons ton ciel, tes femmes et tes fleurs.
France, nous chanterons tes femmes et tes roses;
France, nous chanterons tes vins, autre trésor;
Qu'on voie, ouvrant tes lèvres longtemps closes,
Un fier sourire étinceler encor!
Nectar qu'aux dieux jadis versait Hébé la blonde!
O noir Falerne! ô Massique vermeil!
Pauvres vins du vieux temps oubliés à la ronde ...
Car le Champagne a fait le tour du monde
En conquérant, à nos drapeaux pareil;
Il rit, léger, sous la mousse qui tremble,
Et semble
Dans le cristal un rayon de soleil.
'Je suis le sang des coteaux de Bourgogne!'
Dit celui-là baron à parchemin,
Grand assommeur qui vous met sans vergogne
Son casque au front, si lourd le lendemain....
'C'est moi l'exquis Bordeaux, je sens la violette;
Mes rubis, le gourmet goutte à goutte les boit,
Et mon parfum délicat se complète
Par ta saveur, aile d'un perdreau froid.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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