A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
In 1670 the abbey was, as we have said, in all its glory. True, it had
been somewhat damaged a century previously by the Huguenots, who had
fired the church, driven out the monks, sacked the wine-cellars, burnt
the archives, and committed sundry other depredations inherent to civil
and religious warfare; but the liberal contributions of the faithful,
including Queen Marie de Medicis, had helped to efface all traces of
their visit. The abbey boasted many precious relics rescued from the
Reformers' fury, the most important being the body of St. Helena, the
mother of Constantine the Great, which had been in its possession since
844, and attracted numerous pilgrims. The hierarchical status of the
abbey was high; for no less than nine archbishops had passed forth
through its stately portal to the see of Reims, and twenty-two abbots,
including the venerable Peter of Cluny, to various distinguished
monasteries. Its territorial possessions were extensive; for its abbot
was lord of Hautvillers, Cumières, Cormoyeux, Bomery, and Dizy la
Rivière, and had all manner of rights of _fourmage_, and _huchage_,
_vinage_, and _pressoir banal_, and the like,[93] to the benefit
of the monks and the misfortune of their numerous dependents. Its
revenues were ample, and no small portion was derived from the tithes
of fair and fertile vinelands extending for miles around, and from
the vineyards which the monks themselves cultivated in the immediate
neighbourhood of the abbey.
[Illustration]
It should be remembered that for a lengthy period--not only in France,
but in other countries--the choicest wines were those produced in
vineyards belonging to the Church, and that the _vinum theologium_ was
justly held superior to all others. The rich chapters and monasteries
were more studious of the quality than of the quantity of their
vintages; their land was tilled with particular care, and the learning,
of which in the Middle Ages they were almost the sole depositaries,
combined with opportunities of observation enjoyed by the members of
these fraternities by reason of their retired pursuits, made them
acquainted at a very early period with the best methods of controlling
the fermentation of the grape and ameliorating its produce.[94] To
the monks of Bèze we owe Chambertin, the favourite wine of the first
Napoleon; to the Cistercians of Citaulx the perfection of that Clos
Vougeot which passing regiments saluted _tambour battant_; and the
Benedictines of Hautvillers were equally regardful of the renown of
their wines and vineyards. In 1636 they cultivated one hundred arpents
themselves,[95] their possessions including the vineyards now known as
Les Quartiers and Les Prières at Hautvillers, and Les Barillets, Sainte
Hélène, and Cotes-à-bras at Cumières, the last named of which still
retains a high reputation.
[Illustration]
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