A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
The fame of the new wine, known indifferently as _vin de Perignon_,
_flacon pétillant_, _flacon mousseux_, _vin sautant_, _vin mousseux_,
_saute bouchon_, &c., and even anathematised as _vin du diable_--for
the present term, _vin de Champagne_, was confined as yet to the still
or quasi-still growths--quickly spread. Never, indeed, was a discovery
more opportune. At the moment of its introduction the glory of France
was on the wane; Colbert, Louvois, and Luxembourg were dead; the Treaty
of Ryswick had been signed; famine and deficit reared their threatening
heads, and lo, Providence offered this new consolation for all outward
and inward ills. With the King it could only find scant favour. The
once brilliant Louis was now a bigoted and almost isolated invalid. His
debilitated stomach, ruined by long indulgence, could scarcely even
support the old Burgundy--so old that it was almost tasteless--which
Fagon had prescribed as his sole beverage some years before;[114] and
the popping of sparkling Champagne corks would have scandalised the
quiet _tête-à-tête_ repasts which he was wont to partake of with the
pious Madame de Maintenon.[115]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
But the men who were to be the future _roués_ of the Regency were
in the flower of youthful manhood in 1698, and the recommendation
of Comus had with them more weight than the warnings of Æsculapius.
At the joyous suppers of Anet, where the Duc de Vendôme laid aside
the laurels of Mars to wreathe his brows with the ivy of Bacchus; at
the Temple, where his brother, the Grand Prior, nightly revived the
most scandalous features of the orgies of ancient Rome; at the Palais
Royal, where the future Regent was inaugurating that long series of
_petits soupers_ which were ultimately to cost the lives of himself and
his favourite daughter; and at Chantilly, where the Prince de Conti
sought successfully to reproduce a younger and brighter Versailles,
the pear-shaped flasks, 'ten inches high, including the four or five
of the neck,'[116] stamped with the arms of the noble hosts, and
secured with Spanish wax,[117] were an indispensable adjunct to the
festivities of the table. A story is told of the Marquis de Sillery,
who had turned his sword into a pruning-knife, and applied himself to
the cultivation of the paternal vineyards, having first introduced the
sparkling wine bearing his name at one of the Anet suppers, when, at a
given signal, a dozen of blooming young damsels, scantily draped in the
guise of Bacchanals, entered the room, bearing apparently baskets of
flowers in their hands, but which, on being placed before the guests,
proved to be flower-enwreathed bottles of the new sparkling wine.[118]
If ever a beverage was intended for the pleasures of society, it was
certainly this one, which it was said Nature had made especially for
the French,[119] who found in its discovery a compensation for the
victories of Marlborough.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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