The success of Dom Perignon's wine caused a revolution in the wine-production of the province, and gave rise to numerous imitations, despite the outcry raised against sparkling wine by many _gourmets_, and even by the wine-merchants themselves, who complained that they had to pander to what they regarded as a depraved taste. The elder Bertin du Rocheret, father of the _lieutenant criminel_ and a notable dealer in wine, was much opposed to it.[125] Marshal de Montesquiou d'Artagnan, the gallant assailant of Denain, had ordered some wine of him, and he writes in reply, on November 11, 1711: 'I have chosen three poinçons of the best wine of Pierry at 400 francs the queue, not to be drawn off as _mousseux_--that would be too great a pity. Also a poinçon to be drawn off as _mousseux_ at 250 francs the queue; or, if you will only go as far as 180 francs, it will froth just as well, or better. Also a poinçon of _tocane_ of Ay to be drunk this winter--that is to say, it should be drunk by Shrovetide--at 300 francs the queue: this wine is very fine.'[126] On the 27th December 1712 the Marshal writes: 'With regard to my wine being made _mousseux_, many prefer that it should be so; and I should not be vexed, provided it does not in any way depreciate its quality.' On the 18th October of the following year the stern _laudator temporis acti_ describes how the bottling has been carried out, 'in order that your wines might be _mousseux_, without which I should not have done it, and perhaps you would have found it better, but it would not have had the merit of being _mousseux_, which in my opinion is the merit of a poor wine, and only proper to beer, chocolate, and whipped cream. Good Champagne should be clear and fine, should sparkle in the glass, and should flatter the palate, as it never does when it is _mousseux_, but has a smack of fermentation; hence it is only _mousseux_ because it is working.' The converted Marshal replies on October 25th: 'I was in the wrong to ask you to bottle my wine so that it might be _mousseux_; it is a fashion that prevails everywhere, especially amongst young people. For my own part, I care very little about it; but I wish the wine to be clear and fine, and to have a strong Champagne bouquet.' In the following December Bertin, in answer to the Marshal's request for three quartaux of wine, says: 'Will you kindly let me know at what date you propose to drink this wine? If it is to be drunk as _mousseux_, I shall not agree with you.'