A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
One cause of this falling off in the popularity of the sparkling wine
arose from the great battle which raged for many years respecting
the relative merits of Champagne and Burgundy. It was waged in the
schools, and not in the field; for the combatants were neither dashing
soldiers, brilliant courtiers, nor even gay young students, but potent,
grave, and reverend physicians--the wigged, capped, and gowned pedants
of the Diaphorus type whom Molière so piteously pilloried. The only
blood shed was that of the grape, excepting when some enthusiastic
Sangrado was impelled by a too conscientious practical examination into
the qualities of the vintage he championed to a more than ordinary
reckless use of the lancet. The contending armies couched pens instead
of lances, and marshalled arguments in array in place of squadrons.
They hurled pamphlets and theses at each others' heads in lieu of
bombshells, and kept up withal a running fire of versification, so that
the rumble of hexameters replaced that of artillery.
[Illustration]
National pride, and perhaps a smack of envy at the growing popularity
of the still red wines of the Champagne, had, as far back as 1652, led
a hot-headed young Burgundian, one Daniel Arbinet, to select as the
subject of a thesis, maintained by him before the schools of Paris,
the proposition that the wine of Beaune was more delicious and more
wholesome than any other wine,[141] the remaining vintages of the
universe being pretty roughly handled in the thesis in question. The
Champenois contented themselves for the time being with cultivating
their vineyards and improving their wines, till in 1677, when these
latter had acquired yet more renown, M. de Révélois of Reims boldly
rushed into print with the assertion that the wine of Reims was the
most wholesome of all.[142] Though the first to write in its favour,
he was not the first doctor of eminence who had expressed an opinion
favourable to the wine of Champagne. Péna, a leading Parisian physician
of the seventeenth century, was once consulted by a stranger. 'Where
do you come from?' he inquired. 'I am a native of Saumur.' 'A native
of Saumur. What bread do you eat?' 'Bread from the Belle Cave.' 'A
native of Saumur, and you eat bread from the Belle Cave. What meat
do you get?' 'Mutton fed at Chardonnet.' 'A native of Saumur, eating
bread from the Belle Cave and mutton fed at Chardonnet. What wine do
you drink?' 'Wine from the Côteaux.'[143] 'What! You are a native
of Saumur; you eat bread from the Belle Cave, and mutton fed at
Chardonnet, and drink the wine of the Côteaux, and you come here to
consult me! Go along; there can be nothing the matter with you!'[144]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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