A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
The partisanship quickly spread throughout the country, and the
respective admirers of Burgundy and Champagne pitilessly pelted each
other in prose and verse; for the two camps had their troubadours, who,
like those of old, excited the courage and ardour of the combatants.
The first to sound the warlike trumpet was Benigné Grenan, professor
at the college of Harcourt, who, with the rich vintage of his native
province bubbling at fever-heat through his veins, sought in 1711 to
crush Champagne by means of Latin sapphics, a sample of which has been
thus translated:
'Lift to the skies thy foaming wine,
That cheers the heart, that charms the eye;
Exalt its fragrance, gift divine,
Champagne, from thee the wise must fly!
A poison lurks those charms below,
An asp beneath the flowers is hid;
In vain thy sparkling fountains flow
When wisdom has their lymph forbid.
'Tis, but when cloyed with purer fair
We can with such a traitress flirt;
So following Beaune with reverent air,
Let Reims appear but at dessert.'[147]
The gauntlet thus contemptuously thrown down was promptly and
indignantly picked up by the Rector of the University of Beauvais, the
learned Dr. Charles Coffin, a native of Buzancy, near Reims, who in
the quiet retirement of the Picardian _Alma Mater_ had evidently not
forgotten to keep up his acquaintance with the vintage of his native
province. The Latin poem he produced in reply, under the title of
_Campania vindicata_,[148] had nothing in common with his lugubriously
sepulchral name, as may be seen by the following somewhat freely
translated extracts from it. After invoking the aid of a bottle of the
enlivening liquor whose praises he is about to sing, he exclaims:
'As the vine, although lowly in aspect, outshines
The stateliest trees by the produce it bears,
So midst all earth's list of rich generous wines,
Our Reims the bright crown of preëminence wears.
The Massica, erst sang by Horace of old,
To Sillery now must abandon the field;
Falernian, nor Chian, could ne'er be so bold
To rival the nectar Ay's sunny slopes yield.
As bright as the goblet it sparklingly fills
With diamonds in fusion, it foaming exhales
An odour ambrosial, the nostril that thrills,
Foretelling the flavour delicious it veils.
At first with false fury the foam-bells arise,
And creamily bubbling spread over the brim,
Till equally swiftly their petulance dies
In a purity that makes e'en crystal seem dim.'[149]
[Illustration]
Praising the flavour of this nectar, which he declares is in every way
worthy of its appearance, he stoutly defends the wine from the charge
of unwholesomeness adduced against it by Grenan:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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