A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
When, in 1741, the 'Well-Beloved' passed through Reims, Dom Chatelain,
after rejoicing over the year's vintage having been a very fine one,
adds that it was drunk to a considerable extent and with the greatest
joy in the world during the ten days that the King remained in the
city. 'It was no longer a question,' he exclaims exultingly, 'of
sending for Burgundy or Laon wine.' Three years later, when traversing
the Champagne, on his way to Metz, he again halted at Reims; and after
hearing mass, 'retired to the Archevêché, where the Corps de la Ville
presented his Majesty with the wines of the town, which he ordered
to be taken to his apartments.'[175] Wine was also presented to the
Prince de Soubise, Governor of the Champagne; the Duke de Villeroy, M.
d'Argenson, and the Count de Joyeuse; whilst, for the benefit of the
populace, four fountains of the same fluid flowed at the corners of the
Place de l'Hôtel de Ville.[176] In like manner, at the inauguration of
that 'brazen lie,' the statue of this same Louis XV., in 1767, wine
flowed in rivers from the different fountains of the city.[177]
The satyr-like sovereign of France was by no means the only monarch
of his time who appreciated sparkling Champagne. Frederick the Great
has praised its consoling powers in the doggerel which Voltaire was
engaged to turn into poetry; and George II. of England at St. James's,
and Stanislas Leczinski of Poland at Nancy, both quaffed of the
same vintage of Ay despatched in 1754 from the cellars of Bertin du
Rocheret. Marshal Saxe, during his sojourn in 1745 at Brussels, where
he held a quasi-royal court, of which Mademoiselle de Navarre was the
bright particular star, drew an ample supply of Champagne from the
cellars of that lady's father, Claude Hevin de Navarre of Avenay, who
had established himself as a wine merchant in the Belgian capital.[178]
Despite, too, the continued outcry of some connoisseurs,[179] the
_vin mousseux_ became the universal source of inspiration for the
cabaret-haunting poets of that graceless witty epoch.[180] Voltaire,
all unmoved by the excellent still Champagne with which he and the Duke
de Richelieu had been regaled at Epernay by Bertin du Rocheret in May
1735, persisted in singing the praises of the effervescing wine of Ay,
in the sparkling foam of which he professed to find the type of the
French nation:[181]
'Chloris and Eglé, with their snowy hands,
Pour out a wine of Ay, whose prisoned foam,
Tightly compressed within its crystal home,
Drives out the cork; 'midst laughter's joyous sound
It flies, against the ceiling to rebound.
The sparkling foam of this refreshing wine
The brilliant image of us French does shine.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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