A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
In Europe Champagne has continued to be, from the days of Paulmier and
Venner downwards, the drink of kings, princes, and great lords as they
described it. Take a list of the potentates of the present century,
and the majority of them will be found to have evinced at some time or
other a partiality for the wine. Louis XVIII. drank nothing else at
table. The late ruler of Prussia, Frederick William IV., had such a
penchant for Champagne of a particular manufacture, that he obtained
the cognomen of King Clicquot. The predecessor of Pio Nono, Gregory
XVI., rivalled him in this appreciation, and, terrible to relate, so
did the Commander of the Faithful, Abdul Medjid. The latter might,
however, have pleaded the excuse put forward by Abd-el-Kader, that
although the Prophet had forbidden wine, yet Champagne came into the
category of aerated waters, concerning which he had said nothing, a
remark justifying the title given to this wit-inspiring beverage of
being 'the father of _bons mots_.' Prince Bismarck, in the stormy
period of his youth, was in the barbarous habit of imbibing Champagne
mixed with porter; but at present he judiciously alternates it with old
Port. Marshal MacMahon and the King of the Belgians are said to drink
the pink variety of the _vin mousseux_ by preference.
[Illustration: 'SOUS LA TONNELLE'
(From a print of the time of the Restoration).]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration: 'AU BEAU SEXE!']
Naturally, in France as elsewhere, the sparkling vintage of the Marne
maintains its claims to be reckoned the wine of beauty and fashion,
and more especially in beauty's gayer hours. A glass of Champagne
and a _biscuit de Reims_ has been a refection which, though often
verbally declined, was in the end pretty sure to be accepted from the
days of the _merveilleuses_ and _incroyables_, through those of the
_lionnes_, down to the present epoch of the _cocodettes de la haute
gomme_. Neither at ceremonial banquets nor at ordinary dinner-parties
among our neighbours does Champagne hold, however, so prominent a
place as amongst ourselves, owing to the great variety of other
wines--all capable of appreciation by trained palates--entering into
the composition of these festive repasts. In fact, a _repas de noces_
is the only occasion on which Champagne flows in France with anything
like the freedom to which we are accustomed; and then it is that its
exhilarating effect is marked, as some portly old boy rises with
twinkling eye to propose the health of the bride, or of that _beau
sexe_ to which he feels bound to profess himself deeply devoted. At
such open-air gatherings as the races at Longchamps and Chantilly, the
_buffet_ will be besieged by a succession of frail fair ones in the
most elaborate _toilettes de courses_, seeking to nerve themselves to
witness a coming struggle, or to console themselves for the defeat
of the horse backed by their favoured admirer. And, when writing of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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