With the return of more settled conditions travellers became more
numerous. Lord Prudhoe and Major Felix (1827) were among those who
visited the ruins of Serabit. The account of their journey was lost,
but Lord Prudhoe, after inspecting the temple ruins, was the first
and, as far as I am aware, the only traveller to whom it occurred
that this might be the sanctuary that was visited by the Israelites.
The fact was recorded by Edward Robinson who came into Sinai in the
interest of Biblical research in 1838 and 1852 (i. 79) and who was
himself immensely impressed by the ruins at Serabit. Other travellers
who made a prolonged stay were Laborde and Linant (1828), to whom we
owe the first detailed and illustrated account of the convent church,
its architecture, its great mosaics and its numerous side chapels;
Tischendorf, who secured the famous MS. for Petrograd, as mentioned
above; Bartlett, whose rapid visit in 1839 established interesting
geological facts, more especially with regard to the lie of the land
between Sinai and Syria; and Lepsius, who came into Sinai in 1845 for
the express purpose of copying the hieroglyph inscriptions at Maghara
and Serabit, which he incorporated in his _Denkmäler_ (1860).
Under the rule of Mehemed Ali safety was restored to the _hadj_ route
across Sinai by the rebuilding of the forts at Adjrud (near Suez),
Nakhl and Akaba. The settlement of a garrison brought regularity of
transport which reacted favourably on the Bedawyn who undertook it.
Mehemed Ali, also, was favourably disposed towards the convent. His
nephew, Abbas Pasha, who succeeded him in 1849, visited Sinai in
1853, and formed the plan of building himself a summer residence on
Mount Horeb. A road was therefore planned leading up from Tur on the
coast, which crossed the desert and then led through the relatively
luxurious valley of Hebron, with its many streams and the tamarisk
grove of Solaf. It was partly completed in 1854, when the Pasha was
assassinated. His successor Said Pasha (1854-63), was in friendly
relations with Ferdinand Lesseps, whom he zealously supported in the
scheme for constructing a canal through the Isthmus of Suez. The
enterprise was financed by French and Turkish subscriptions, and was
at the outset worked by means of forced labour, later with the help of
modern engineering appliances. The canal was completed under Ishmael
Pasha (1863-79) in 1869, and the British Government became a large
shareholder. Ishmael Pasha was an Oriental despot who depleted the
treasury and robbed the people, but who modernised Egypt by building
schools, laying down railways, and setting up telegraph communications.
In return for a large annual tribute he was raised to the rank of
Khedive, or viceroy, of Egypt by the Sultan in 1867. But the financial
difficulties, in which he became involved, were such that France and
England brought pressure to bear on him and finally deposed him. He was
succeeded by his son Tewfik Pasha (1879-92).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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