The tomb of Saleh in the Wadi Sheykh was noticed by Bishop Pococke in
1726 (i. 141), and Burckhardt, in 1816, mentioned the celebration held
here which took place in the last week in May (p. 489). This festival
was described in detail by Tischendorf who saw it in 1846,[196] and by
Prof. E. H. Palmer, who witnessed it in June of 1870.[197]
The festival took place at the time when the dates ripened, and lasted
three days. Tribes from all parts of the peninsula, including women and
children, assembled in the Wadi Sheykh near the insignificant-looking
tomb which consisted of a domed chamber cemented over, with an empty
coffin standing inside. Pieces of cloth, ostrich eggs, tassels and
other parts of camel equipment were brought as offerings and suspended
from the roof. The first step in the festivity consisted in renovating
and whitewashing the tomb. In a large tent erected outside forty to
fifty men assembled and sat in a circle, while the first of all the
sheykhs barefoot and wearing the white garment (_Imam_) and a white
turban over his red fez, sat near the fire. A procession headed by the
women encircled the tomb. The young men then brought out fifty to sixty
lambs which were cut on the forehead, and blood was drawn before they
were slaughtered, skinned and cut up. While the food was boiling a
camel race took place, four to six camels racing at a time. Four to six
persons then sat around each lambskin which was spread on the ground,
and on it their share of boiled lambs’ flesh was poured out, which
they ate using their fingers. Besides the flesh there were meal-cakes
(_bilaw_), and water to drink. A dance followed in which men and women
took part, and which was timed to singing and clapping of hands.
Besides this, two women danced figures outside the group. Men and women
remained conversing in couples till late at night. The celebration
struck Tischendorf as dignified. At its conclusion some of the Bedawyn
repaired to the summit of the Gebel Musa, where there stood a small and
highly revered mosque (mentioned as early as 1335), which they entered,
wearing the _Imam_ or white garment. Over the natural hole, called the
footprint of the prophet’s she-camel, they sacrificed a sheep.
A further festivity took place in former days near the summit of
the Gebel Musa which we hear of in the sixteenth century only and
not again. Early writers agree that no hermit or monk ever spent a
night on the summit of the mountain. Nilus (_c._ 400) remarked that
the height was generally avoided “since God conferred there with the
people,” while Etheria and Antoninus Martyr simply noted that no hermit
spent the night there. This fact Procopius (_c._ 550) connected with
“heavenly phenomena.” At a later date the hermit Simeon, for a time,
dwelt “on the summit of Mount Sinai, where the Law was given, a place
deserted because of the restless Arabs.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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