A Journal of a Tour in the Congo Free StateDorman, Marcus R. P.
History
A Journal of a Tour in the Congo Free State
Dorman, Marcus R. P.
Congo (Democratic Republic) -- Description and travel
On January 2nd we leave Leopoldville by train and remembering the amount
of the fare coming up, I was careful to reduce my baggage to the
minimum. Of course the food cases were all empty, the wine drunk, the
salt paid away to natives and the petroleum burnt; still for myself,
three boys and excess baggage, the fare for the two hundred miles was
over £25. Just before we left Leopoldville, who should enter the
carriage but Mr. Joseph Clarke, of Ikoko, and another Mr. Clark, who is
also a Missionary. I was very pleased to see them and hear the news from
their side of the question. They were travelling to Maladi to attend a
meeting of missionaries, but to-day only proceeded as far as Kinshassa.
Mr. Clarke told me he had sent to the Commission of Enquiry some new
photographs of the boy without a hand whom he had shown to me at Ikoko
and was convinced that the world would be startled when the report
appeared. All the meetings of the Commission are held in public and
therefore the evidence submitted at them is already known. The
interpretation of this apparently depends upon the already formed
opinion of the individual, for while the State officials say that very
little, if anything, has been proved against the Government, the
Missionaries are quite satisfied that the A.B.I.R. Company will be
severely condemned. Of course no report can possibly satisfy any of the
controversialists for their feelings are too strong to permit them to be
content with cold facts judicially stated.
After an uneventful and uncomfortable journey through the beautiful part
described before, we arrive at Sono Congo about 5 p.m. and take a room
in the Magazins-Generaux, a wooden building raised above the level of
the ground and fairly clean. It is beautifully fresh and cool up here,
and for the first time for half a year, it is possible to take a bath in
clear white water.
On again at 6.30 a.m. at which hour it was quite cold, but as the sun
rose and we descended, it became very hot indeed, for we were then well
south of the Equator and it was summer in the Lower Congo. The scenery
through the Palabala mountains improved, if possible, on a second
acquaintance and the railway as a feat of engineering, appeared still
more marvellous. After a dusty, hot journey, we arrived at Matadi at 5
p.m. and found Mr. de Rache, the Commissaire of the District, on the
platform. He had kindly taken a room at one of the hotels, but as it
necessitated climbing up the hill and I could only walk with difficulty,
I decided to sleep on board the _Anversville_ which was discharging
cargo at the pier head. Here indeed were all the luxuries of Europe. A
barber, a big bath, white spotless table-cloths, clean shining plate,
red juicy beef and last, but by no means least, cold drinks. It is worth
roughing it to experience the keen delight at returning to comforts
which are never appreciated at their full worth when enjoyed every day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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