And, by way of afterthought, I inquire whether, in the event of a sudden
scoot before the Germans, a reporter quartered at the Hotel de la Poste
will be cut off from the base of communications and left to his or her
ingenuity in flight?
The Commandant, vague and imperturbable, replies that in all probability
it will be so.
And I (if possible more imperturbable than he) observe that the War
Correspondents will make quite a nice flying-party.
In a little open carriage--the taxis have long ago all gone to the
War--in an absurd little open carriage, exactly like a Cheltenham "rat,"
I depart like a lady of Cheltenham, for the Hotel de la Poste. The
appearance and the odour of this little carriage give you an odd sense
of security and peace. The Germans may be advancing on Ghent at this
moment, but for all the taste of war there is in it, you might be that
lady, going from one hotel to the other, down the Cheltenham Promenade.
The further you go from the Military Hospital and the Railway Station
the more it is so. The War does not seem yet to have shaken the
essential peace of the _bourgeois_ city. The Hotel de la Poste is in the
old quarter of the town, where the Cathedrals are. Instead of the long,
black railway lines and the red-brick facade of the Station and Post
Office; instead of the wooded fields beyond and the white street that
leads to the battle-places south and east; instead of the great Square
with its mustering troops and swarms of refugees, you have the quiet
Place d'Armes, shut in by trees, and all round it are the hotels and
cafes where the officers and the War Correspondents come and go. Through
all that coming and going you get the sense of the old foreign town that
was dreaming yesterday. People are sitting outside the restaurants all
round the Place, drinking coffee and liqueurs as if nothing had
happened, as if Antwerp were far-off in another country, and as if it
were still yesterday. Mosquitoes come up from the drowsy canal water
and swarm into the hotels and bite you. I found any number of mosquitoes
clinging drowsily to my bedroom walls.
But there are very few women among those crowds outside the restaurants.
There are not many women except refugees in the streets, and fewer still
in the shops.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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