Brazil -- Description and travel; Geology -- Amazon River Valley
CHRISTMAS EVE AT MANAOS.—CEREMONIES OF THE INDIANS.—CHURCHES ON
THE AMAZONS.—LEAVE MANAOS FOR THE RIO NEGRO.—CURIOUS RIVER
FORMATION.—ASPECT OF THE RIVER.—ITS VEGETATION.—SCANTY
POPULATION.—VILLAGE OF TAUA PÉASSU.—PADRE OF THE
VILLAGE.—PALMS.—VILLAGE OF PEDREIRA.—INDIAN CAMP.—MAKING
PALM-THATCH.—SICKNESS AND WANT AT PEDREIRA.—ROW IN THE
FOREST.—TROPICAL SHOWER.—GEOLOGY OF PEDREIRA.—INDIAN
RECRUITS.—COLLECTION OF PALMS.—EXTRACTS FROM MR. AGASSIZ’S
NOTES ON THE VEGETATION OF THE AMAZONS AND THE RIO
NEGRO.—RETURN TO MANAOS.—DESOLATION OF THE RIO NEGRO.—ITS
FUTURE PROSPECTS.—HUMBOLDT’S ANTICIPATIONS.—WILD
FLOWERS.—DISTRIBUTION OF FISHES IN THE AMAZONIAN WATERS.—HOW
FAR DUE TO MIGRATION.—HYDROGRAPHIC SYSTEM.—ALTERNATION BETWEEN
THE RISE AND FALL OF THE SOUTHERN AND NORTHERN TRIBUTARIES.
_December 25th._—Manaos. The Indians have a pretty observance here for
Christmas eve. At nightfall, from the settlements at Hyanuary, two
illuminated canoes come across the river to Manaos; one bearing the
figure of Our Lady, the other of Saint Rosalia. They look very brilliant
as they come towards the shore, all the light concentrated about the
figures carried erect in the prows. On landing, the Indians, many of
whom have come to the city in advance, form a procession,—the women
dressed in white, and with flowers in their hair, the men carrying
torches or candles; and they follow the sacred images, which are borne
under a canopy in front of the procession, to the church, where they are
deposited, and remain during Christmas week. We entered with them, and
saw the kneeling, dusky congregation, and the two saints,—one a wooden,
coarsely painted image of the Virgin, the other a gayly dressed
doll,—placed on a small altar, where was also a figure of the infant
Jesus, surrounded by flowers. At a later hour the midnight mass was
celebrated; less interesting to me than the earlier ceremony, because
not so exclusively a service of the Indians, though they formed a large
part of the congregation; and the music, as usual, was performed by the
band of Indian boys from the Casa dos Educandos. But there is nothing
here to make the Catholic service impressive; the churches on the
Amazons generally are of the most ordinary kind, and in a ruinous
condition. There is a large unfinished stone church in Manaos, standing
on the hill, and occupying a commanding position, which will make it a
conspicuous object if it is ever completed; but it has stood in its
present state for years, and seems likely to remain so for an indefinite
length of time. It is a pity they have not the custom here of dressing
their churches with green at Christmas, because they have so singularly
beautiful and appropriate a tree for it in the palms. The Pupunha palm,
for instance, so architectural in its symmetry, with its columnar-like
stem and its dark-green vault of drooping leaves, would be admirable for
this purpose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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