A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second EditionRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second Edition
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
Nearer than the county of Durham, stretched the ridge of Cross-fell,
and an indistinct multitude of the Westmoreland and Yorkshire
highlands, whose lines disappeared behind Saddleback, now evidently
pre-eminent over Skiddaw, so much so as to exclude many a height
beyond it. Passing this mountain in our course to the south, we saw,
immediately below, the fells round Derwentwater, the lake itself
remaining still concealed in their deep rocky bosom. Southward
and westward, the whole prospect was a "turbulent chaos of dark
mountains." All individual dignity was now lost in the immensity of
the whole, and every variety of character was overpowered by that of
astonishing and gloomy grandeur.
Over the fells of Borrowdale, and far to the south, the northern end of
Windermere appeared, like a wreath of gray smoke, that spreads along
the mountain's side. More southward still, and beyond all the fells of
the lakes, Lancaster sands extended to the faintly seen waters of the
sea. Then to the west, Duddon sands gleamed in a long line among the
fells of High Furness. Immediately under the eye, lay Bassenthwaite,
surrounded by many ranges of mountains, invisible from below. We
overlooked all these dark mountains, and saw green cultivated vales
over the tops of lofty rocks, and other mountains over these vales in
many ridges, whilst innumerable narrow glens were traced in all their
windings and seen uniting behind the hills with others, that also
sloped upwards from the lake.
The air on this summit was boisterous, intensely cold and difficult to
be inspired, though the day was below warm and serene. It was dreadful
to look down from nearly the brink of the point, on which we stood,
upon the lake of Bassenthwaite and over a sharp and separated ridge of
rocks, that from below appeared of tremendous height, but now seemed
not to reach half way up Skiddaw; it was almost as if
"the precipitation might down stretch
Below the beam of sight."
Under the lee of an heaped up pile of slates, formed by the customary
contribution of one from every visitor, we found an old man sheltered,
whom we took to be a shepherd, but afterwards learned was a farmer
and, as the people in this neighbourhood say, a 'statesman'; that is,
had land of his own. He was a native and still an inhabitant of an
adjoining vale; but, so laborious is the enterprise reckoned, that,
though he had passed his life within view of the mountain, this was his
first ascent. He descended with us, for part of our way, and then wound
off towards his own valley, stalking amidst the wild scenery, his large
figure wrapt in a dark cloak and his steps occasionally assisted by a
long iron pronged pike, with which he had pointed out distant objects.
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