A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
We had left the Amir of Bishi’s village some way behind when the sun rose
the following morning. The track continues along the river-bed until
the valley terminates in a steep ascent. However, the old-world Arabs
have built a paved way up the slope, which renders its surmounting much
easier than it otherwise would be,—not that it is by any means a simple
process as it is. Scrambling up on foot, we reached the summit some time
before the camels, and were able to rest for a time and watch the poor
grunting brutes toiling in and out the intricate turns in the path; for
it is a mere track winding through great piles of overturned rock, and
along the edges of steep inclines. I found the ascent from the valley of
Khoreiba to the summit to be over six hundred and fifty feet, giving us
an altitude of nearly five thousand feet above the sea-level. The view
looking back was a very lovely one. Below us lay the valley of Khoreiba,
shut in with its precipitous walls of rock, under which, amongst green
fields and shady trees, flowed the river, a streak of silver thread. Away
beyond at the farther end of the valley one caught glimpses of the peaks
of other mountains, rearing their fantastic heads into the clear morning
sky.
When the camels caught us up we filled up our water-bottles at a spring
of clear water and set off again. These water-bottles—_zemzemiya_ they
call them in the Yemen, and in Morocco _guerba_ (plural _guerab_)—are a
regular institution of Arab travel, nor would it be possible to proceed
without them. They are made of leather, those in Arabia being cut into
shape, while those of Morocco are the whole skins.
Now and then we would catch a glimpse of a herd of apes scampering away
up the steep rocks with resounding grunts; but more often we could only
hear their cries, for their colour does much to conceal them from view
amongst the limestone rocks.
So cool and pleasant was the air at the elevation we had reached, that
instead of remounting our camels, who, poor beasts, were tired with
the rocky ascent, we strode out on foot. Leaving the village of Dar
en-Nekil on our right, we passed through a gorge of low walls of rock,
and then descended to the level of the plateau, which here extends for a
considerable distance, broken now and again by rocky peaks and hills.
This plateau, one with that on which Dhala is situated, may be said to
circle round Jibel Jahaf, a limestone mountain situated just above the
large village of Jelileh, where, although not within their frontier as
delimitated, there is a small Turkish fort. The plain is well cultivated,
and ploughing was in active progress at the time of my visit, besides
being dotted with trees; but from the fact that the young corn had not
yet commenced to push, the country looked somewhat barren and dreary.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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