A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
Salutations over, I was asked to ascend, and a few minutes later found
myself seated with my hosts in a small, stuffy, and very dirty room. They
were too polite to ask straight out who I was, so I began to open the
attack myself. I had been to Turkey; the man who had not seen Stamboul
had never lived! Glorious Stamboul! All the world over it was a pleasure
to meet the Turk; he was always a gentleman, always kind and polite; and
how inexpressibly glad I was to meet the Turk before me he might imagine,
after I had been travelling all the way from Aden with only camel-men and
a couple of uneducated servants; and would he accept a box of cigarettes
and an amber cigarette-holder, which I had brought from my little
shop in Port Said with me,—where, by the by, my wife and children were
starving—(signs of tears)—owing to this accursed rebellion; three months
the coffee I had bought in Sanaa had been lying there, and for the dear
wife and little ones’ sakes—(tears)—I was imperilling my life in these
strange lands to get my coffee down: meanwhile my brother, a Greek like
myself, was looking after the shop; and how delightful the Turks always
were, &c., &c. So much for number one, my friend in the dirty shirt; now
for number two.
Was this, then, the Sheikh Besaisi? No; it could not be that my infidel
eyes were blessed with the sight of his honourable corpulency. His fame
was all over the world. Port Said rang with his name. His honour, his
boundless wealth—(exorbitant old tax-gatherer!)—his immense charities,
were famous throughout all countries: indeed this was a blessed day for
me. (Box of cigarettes and amber mouthpiece)—number two dead.
Whence came he, number three? No; it could not be that his family was
from Fez. Mulai Idris, their patron saint, might he protect me! Had I
known that I was destined to meet a Fez Moor here, I should have hurried
up from Aden. Fez, every street of it, I knew, from the tomb of Sidi Ali
bou Rhaleb to the Dar al Makhzen: and here was Abdurrahman, a Tangier
Moor. How good the Deity had been in joining us together in the bonds
of friendship!—cigarettes and amber mouthpiece; general embracings and
_tableau_! _Exeunt_ officials. Screams of laughter from Saïd, which I had
to choke by sitting on him on the top of my mattress, lest he should be
heard—and then coffee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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