A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
[Illustration: _Village of Aredoah._]
I had told more untruths in the last forty-eight hours than I liked to
think about; but, curious to say, my delight at having crept through was
far more keen than any remorse I felt for my wickedness. The road does
not enter the town of Kátaba, for which I was by no means sorry; for
under the walls of the little place we could see a large Turkish camp
pitched, that of the division of the army under Ismail Pasha, which had
come on here after the retaking of Dhamar and Yerim, two of the larger
cities of the central Yemen. Giving them a wide range, we soon were out
of sight of the camp, and after crossing the Wadi Esh-Shari, we entered
wild broken country, the foot-hills of the great range of mountains that
appeared to block our way ahead. A sad incident happened before leaving
the _jimerouk_. A poor Turk, whom I had noticed slouching about the
place in rags, came to me just as I was leaving. Kissing my hand, he
besought my protection in Turkish, which an Arab in the Osmanli service
translated to me. His story was a pitiable one. He had been enrolled
in the conscription from some village near Smyrna, and sent with his
brother to fight in the Yemen. At length, after much fighting and many
privations, he reached Kátaba, where the roll of the surviving troops
was called. His name was not on the list, and it was found to have been
a mistake that he ever left his native country. Ismail Pasha, then at
Kátaba, commanded him to be stripped of his uniform and turned loose, on
the ground that he was not a soldier of the Sultan’s at all. This was
done, and the poor fellow wandered away, a stranger in a strange land,
until the Sheikh Besaisi took pity on him, and fed him and clothed him
(!) at the custom-house. He spoke no Arabic, and the Arab interpreting
for him was the only one who spoke a word of his native tongue. He
prayed me to take him on with me. This unfortunately was impossible. The
presence of a Turk with me would render me very liable to danger from the
Arabs; but I advised him to try and reach Aden, where, being as strong
and good-looking a young fellow as ever lived, I felt sure he would get
work, and in time find his way back. Beyond giving him the wherewithal to
find his way to Aden, I was unable in any way to assist him.
Rough as the country we were passing through was, it presented here and
there little patches and valleys rich in cultivation. In many places the
scenery resembled a lovely garden. The lawns were barley, scarcely three
inches high, while trees stood here and there about the fields. Little
streams and pools of water added an effect of coolness, while the rocky
hills were clothed in plants and flowers, noticeable amongst them being a
scarlet-flowering aloe and a variety of the euphorbia. Great ant-heaps,
some six and eight feet in height, stood like sugar-loaves amongst the
rich vegetation. After a glorious sunset, night came quickly upon us, and
the scenery was lost in the darkness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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