A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
The valley becomes more distinct as one proceeds, the mountains closing
in on either side, leaving but little level ground beyond the absolute
course of the stream, and that was uneven enough. Hanging over the
river-banks were trees and thick undergrowth, but the darkness prevented
one seeing anything but their outline. At length our path seemed
abruptly to end. Here a halt was called and we dismounted. From this
point commenced an ascent I shall never forget. A winding path, a mere
track in the face of the precipices, climbs the mountain-side until an
elevation of over eight thousand feet above the sea-level is reached.
The night was as yet moonless, and one could scarcely see a step in
front of one, and it was bitterly cold. Lightening the animals as much
as possible by dividing the baggage amongst the men, every one taking
his share, except Abdurrahman, who carried my shot-gun, we commenced the
ascent. Any moment man or beast might have made a false step and alighted
somewhere in the valley beneath. Not only was the ascent trying, but it
must be also remembered that we were now in rebel country, and that our
discovery would mean certain death, to myself if not to all of us. The
very tribe whose lands we were entering, the Kabyla el-Owd,[39] had only
a few months before thrown off the Turkish yoke, and celebrated their
day of independence by cutting up their Sheikh into small pieces and
distributing him over the country, as a warning to others. Our party,
including our new retinue supplied by El-Besaisi, numbered in all some
ten persons; but with the exception of my shot-gun and revolver we had
no weapons worth considering as such, unless it came to hand-to-hand
fighting, when ten-foot-spears may be useful. However, our numbers made
any attack from a small party improbable. Up and up we toiled, often on
all-fours. We had not ascended many hundreds of feet before we found
that our remaining camel was perfectly incapable of surmounting the
difficulties of the road, while his constant mumblings and gruntings
threatened every moment to bring the natives upon us, and already we
could hear their dogs barking in the villages below. Once or twice, too,
men called to one another, and lights could be seen moving about. Then we
would lie still and hold our animals so as to ensure silence. At length
it was decided to send the camel back, and two of the men undertook the
job, trusting to be out of danger’s way before daylight. This made extra
weights for the men and mules, but they cheerily lifted their burdens and
our scramble recommenced.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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