A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
Leaving the track, we struck into the thick brushwood in order to avoid
as much as possible approaching the villages. One, however, we were
obliged, by nature of the country, to pass much nearer than was pleasant.
This was Sobeh, the principal stronghold of the Owd tribe. How silently
we crept on! But sure-footed as were our little mules, they could not
help now and again making a false step, and rattling the stones with
which our path was strewn. When this happened we would all stand still
for a second, holding our breath to listen. Once a dog barked, others
took it up, and presently it seemed as though a hundred yelping curs,
intent on our discovery, were doing their utmost to give warning of
our proximity. Happily they did not leave the village, but, after the
custom of Arab dogs, barked from the shelter of their masters’ homes.
Nevertheless, the noise was loud enough to wake a man, who shouted to
another, and a conversation took place. Seizing me by the wrist, my men
dragged me into a thick cluster of bamboos, whence we could see a light,
evidently a lantern, flickering in the village only a few hundred yards
away. It was an anxious moment; but at length the dogs ceased their
barking, and the light disappeared. Waiting to make sure that all was
quiet, we stole on again, thankful at our narrow escape.
Then the moon rose, but the cold was too intense, and I was too tired
to admire the lovely mist-swathed valley and the broken mountain-peaks.
Once or twice more we awoke the dogs, and once again, too, a man shouted
to know who was passing; but we did not hide this time, as dawn was
approaching, and my men whispered to me that even as it was it would be
a mere chance if the sun did not rise to find us still in the enemy’s
country.
At length it came, cold steely-grey dawn; then the sky flushed crimson
and pink, and we put on our final spurt, driving the mules before us with
sharp cuts from bits of rope, and hurrying as fast as our feet would
carry us. The sun was nearly up when one of the men pointed out to me,
a long way ahead, a solitary tower standing on the edge of a precipice
overlooking the river. “Once there,” he whispered, “we are safe; they
are friends of ours.” At length we almost ran. The sun would be up in a
quarter of an hour, and the cold grey mist which at present helped to
conceal us would rise.
A little before the great gold orb appeared over the mountains to the
east, we forded the icy-cold river and scrambled up to our looked-for
goal, Beit en-Nedish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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