A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
At one spot, however, this is forcibly brought to one’s mind, for the
road passes close to the edge of a deep narrow gorge through which flows
the river Kha. This valley presents a most extraordinary appearance
as seen from above, for it is nothing more or less than a huge slice
cut out of the plateau. We passed it at its apex, and could see down
nearly its whole course. The distance from side to side at the upper
part is extraordinarily small, the sides of the valley being formed of
perpendicular precipices. Far, far down below us, some thousands of feet
at the nearest part, were the coffee-groves and villages, dotted here and
there along the broken rocks that fringed the edge of the river, which
we could follow with our eyes, a thread of silver, till it was lost in
the hazy mists that lay across the valley many miles away. Beyond this
again rose the torn fantastic peaks to which we were now becoming so
accustomed. It was a wonderful sight, and we reined in our mules and
stood, Arabs and European alike, gazing at it with wondering eyes. The
Wadi Kha, unlike so many of these Yemen rivers, eventually reaches the
sea. It flows into the Wadi Zebeed, and continuing its course through
the city of that name, and across the Teháma, reaches the Red Sea at Ras
Zebeed, opposite the island of Jibel Zukur. Just as suddenly as we had
come in sight of this strange gorge, just so suddenly did we lose it
again, and only a few minutes after having left its brink the surrounding
scenery assumed its former appearance, that of a dusty rocky plain.
Close to this spot is a mark in a rock which is supposed to be the
footprint of Ali, the son-in-law and one of the successors in the
Caliphate of the Prophet Mahammed, or of his horse, there seems to be no
certainty which. The imprint itself is vague enough to be anything, but
too large to be either of those mentioned.
Below the village of Digishúb we stopped to refresh ourselves and take
breakfast. A few rough stone huts have been erected by the roadside,
near which some kind philanthropist has built a series of small tanks,
supplied with delicious cold water by a spring. In one of these tanks
live an enormous quantity of fish. The water is very shallow, and the
pond small, and were it not that the passers-by feed them on crumbs,
there would be but little chance of their being able to exist in such a
small space. Unlike fish in the springs of Morocco, they are not held in
any way sacred, and the Jews often catch and cook them, though the Arabs
say that they themselves never touch them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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