A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
My meals I was sent out to get for the first day; but after that, all
leaving the place was forbidden to me, except to take exercise in charge
of a guard of soldiers. On the whole I had little to complain of, except
that the water and sanitary arrangements were both very bad—so bad, in
fact, that on the last night I was taken with violent fever, as also
were Saïd and Abdurrahman, who by no means shared such good quarters
as I did, being housed in a large dirty room, where chained prisoners
were their companions. This, however, was changed on my representing
that both were suffering from fever to the Governor-General on my second
interview. On this occasion I found his Excellency more reasonable, and
once or twice he even laughed, being apparently much amused when I told
him how I had got over the frontier in the disguise of a Greek. But
the Pasha’s merriment did not bring about any change in my condition,
and I was taken back from his presence to the same prison as before.
I told him at this interview that one of my reasons for visiting the
country was to correspond for the ‘Times,’ and he thereupon entered into
a long political statement as to the rebellion and its reasons. His
Excellency asked me what we should do in India in a like circumstance,
and I replied that I thought the matter could be best solved by a total
disarmament of the Arabs. While agreeing with me, he acknowledged such a
task an impossibility with the troops under his command, and said he was
earnestly hoping for further reinforcements from Constantinople. From his
manner, and what I could gather about Ahmed Feizi Pasha, he seems to be
a man of great personal courage and perseverance, besides possessing an
extraordinary amount of diplomacy and skill in dealing with the Arabs,
learned, no doubt, during the time that he was Governor of Mecca; and
in spite of the fact that he saw right to put me in prison, I cannot
but admire the thorough character which the general seems to possess.
His surroundings showed that here, at least, some regard was shown for
the common soldiers, and all wore boots, not to say fezzes. Here, too,
their uniforms were not in rags, nor did they seem to be on the eve of
starvation. There seemed, too, in Sanaa, more organisation than I had
seen elsewhere. I asked the Pasha why I was kept in prison, and he
replied that my presence was not entirely satisfactory, and that he had
ordered me to be lodged in the guard-room lest the Arab population might
do me harm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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