A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
The city of Sanaa is situated in a wide valley, at an elevation of seven
thousand two hundred and fifty feet above the sea-level. Although the
town lies almost altogether on the flat bottom of the valley, a mountain,
Jibel Negoum, rises abruptly on the east—so abruptly, in fact, that the
old fortress and castle which form the citadel of Sanaa are perched on
one of its spurs, from which the main peak rises in rocky bareness to a
very considerable height.
The town is in form a triangle, the apex being formed by the _kasr_
above-mentioned, and the base by the wall of the garden suburb Bir
el-Azab. There are three distinct quarters within the outer walls: the
first or east quarter that of the Turks and Arabs, where are situated
the bazaars, the Government buildings, and the principal native houses;
the second the Jews’ quarter, separated from the last by a wide strip of
barren ground, part of which shows signs of once having been a cemetery;
and thirdly, this suburb of Bir el-Azab, where many a villa stands
within luxurious gardens of fruit and other trees, enclosed with high
walls. In spite of the fact that Sanaa is situated only between the
15th and 16th degree of north latitude, and so well within the tropics,
there are very few signs to be seen of anything approaching tropical
vegetation, and one is surprised at first, until the great altitude
of the place is taken into consideration, to find that nearly all our
English fruits flourish there. Although, of course, by day the sun is
intensely hot, it is quite a common occurrence to experience frosts on
winter nights. Yet in spite of lying at so great an elevation above the
sea, Sanaa is subject at times to serious droughts; and although in the
rainy season a torrent of water pours down the river-bed which runs
through the centre of the town, in the dry periods of the year water is
procurable only from wells sunk to a great depth in the solid rock. The
water drawn from these wells is said to be very fresh and good. As is the
custom in so many parts of the East, it is a marketable produce, and is
carried about in skins by water-bearers, and sold at so much per skin,
or even per cup. Yet in spite of water being a thing of money value, it
is extraordinary how clean the general population of Sanaa seem to be,
with the exception of the lower-class Turks, who, to judge from their
appearance, one could believe never to have even heard of its existence.
However, happily they are in the minority.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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