A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
One of the great institutions of Sanaa are the khans, or caravanserais,
of which there are a considerable number, the greater part being situated
near the gates of the city. These buildings vary in size, but some are
very large, though nearly all in bad repair. They usually consist of
large houses three and four storeys in height, open to the sky in the
centre. The lower floor forms stabling for the animals, while a number
of rooms of various sizes open out on to the balconies which surround
the court on the upper storeys. The hire of these rooms is very small,
something like twopence a night, and as many as like to crowd into it do
so. There is nearly always a _café_ attached, where cooking can be done,
either by the visitors themselves, or, if more extravagantly inclined, by
the servants of the khan. Assembled round the gates of these khans are
to be seen the tribes-people from every part of the interior—bringers of
salt from Mareb, the modern Saba or Sheba; of coffee from the northern
districts; of indigo and grain and spices from wherever the soil is
suitable to their growth. Caravans from the Hadramaut and Yaffa discharge
their goods here too, to reload their camels with the produce of the
largest city of Southern Arabia.
The population of Sanaa, although there is no official census to base
one’s calculation upon, probably numbers some forty to fifty thousand
people, of whom twenty thousand are said to be Jews. These, as has
already been stated, have a quarter entirely to themselves; and although
many hire shops in the bazaars, and are daily engaged in the town in
attending to them, or in carrying on their respective trades, at night
retire to the _ghetto_, with the exception of a few who are servants, and
who sleep in their masters’ houses. There seems to be no more oppression
of the Jews in the Yemen than there is of the Arabs. They are free to
carry on whatever trade they will; to attend their synagogues and
schools, and, in fact, seem very little interfered with by the Turks.
They, of course, pay their regular share in the taxation, as is only
right they should; and if it be exceptionally heavy in their case, it is
so also in the case of the Arab inhabitants—though naturally the Jews, as
to nature born, cry out a great deal more than the natives.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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