A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
On and on, until the gorge narrows and enters a defile, merely the
water-course and walls of rock on either hand, some eighty feet perhaps
in height. Here was a sight that caused us an hour or so of amusement
and laughter, for the precipices were the haunt of hundreds of apes and
monkeys, which scampered away at our approach, and sat chattering and
grinning at us from their perches. So tame many of them were, that we
were able to approach within fifteen or twenty yards of them before they
would seek refuge in the nooks and crannies of the rocks. My men were
eager to shoot one or two, but I would not allow it, as it was a real
pleasure to watch the funny creatures in their antics, and to listen
to their squeaking and chattering. In some cases the larger apes were
carrying their young in their arms, and handling them as carefully as a
woman does her child. Even Abdurrahman awoke from his melancholy, and
laughed heartily at the strange creatures, which bounded from rock to
rock, or showed their rows of chattering white teeth from some hole in
the cliff.
Continuing along the bottom of the valley for some little way farther, we
turned eventually from the water-course, and climbed a bare rocky hill to
the north of the river, and, crossing a small plateau, descended to the
village of Hojaila, which we reached an hour or two before sunset.
At this point we had said farewell to the mountains, for although the
foot-hills extend farther into the Teháma, beyond Bajil in fact, we
were to see no more of the greater ranges. But not only is Hojaila the
finishing spot of the mountains, but the people entirely change, becoming
from that point Arabs of the plains, dwelling in mud and thatch houses,
and different in appearance and habits.
We had passed during the day’s march through a part of the country
the inhabitants of which need investigation, and about which I,
unfortunately, can say but little here. These are people of a religious
sect who called themselves Makarama, but of the origin of which, except
that their belief is said to be of Indian extraction, I have found it
impossible to discover anything. These Yemenis are in language and
appearance like their Moslem neighbours, although several names in the
vicinity tell of India. Principal amongst them is the “Dar el Hinoud,” or
Indians’ monastery or house, farther on in the Teháma. Of their belief
but little was to be ascertained. It is summed up, however, in two lines
of poetry, of which I was able to obtain the translation:—
“God is indiscoverable, by day or by night.
Do not worry about anything, there is neither heaven nor hell.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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